Price?

Hey that's a cool site Ade! Is that another of your sites, you are going to have a new member, kinda like The Home Shop Machinist in the US.

I have one, it got cracked when my crank snapped, I'm a welder by trade, I took my time and welded it up right, did all the proper preheat and annealing.
Finished it off and repainted it, should be good for another twenty years or so , I could let it go pretty cheap.

IMHO that aint gonna cut it, you need a sharp pointer pointed at a thin scribed line in the flywheel, I tried the creak method a few times but could never get as close as the method DGman describes.

Myself I would probably do this http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Holemaking/Reamers/Taper-Reamers/Taper-Pin-Reamers-Sets/Taper-Pin-Reamers?navid=12106200
But if you don't want to or don't have time to get a reamer, I would heat it up and knock it in so there is no wobble at all and just mushroom the small end a little it wont take much, after it cools down make sure there is still no wobble, if there is knock the big end until it goes away.
Yeah I forgot about the Alaska thing, still curious what 38 was doing up at O dark thirty surfin the web.

Well it's already tapped for 120 so you wouldn't have to do anything,it most likely has a set of outlets for 110 and a set for 220. If you were to run the 220 to a breaker box you could have a regular 110/220 setup as long as exede the capacity of the alternator.

If you don't have any luck here try smokstak.com there are a lot of old engine guys over there.

Not an expert but I believe it will run but the motor will run hot and eventually the smoke will get out of it.