Puppeteer

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Reno Speedster

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 11
1
Listeroid Engines / Re: Proud new owner of a Metro 6/1
« on: November 06, 2008, 05:24:28 AM »
I have a big van radiator hooked up to my 6/1 and it seems to work fine.  Flow with thermosyphon is not a problem, in fact the biggest problem may be over cooling (which can be controlled with a thermostat and valves in the cooling lines). 

2
Listeroid Engines / Re: The run in on the Frankinlister
« on: October 30, 2008, 04:59:38 AM »
Nice!
I too would like to get more info on the filter and oiler.

i am still a ways out... everything is taking a lot longer than I anticiated.  It is good that it is a hobby and not a necessity at this point!

Let us know more as it comes along.

Jim

Hey Jim,
  Boy do I understand.  Mine took YEARS to get together.  But its tough to get things done with no shop, not time and no money!  But its coming together.  Mine is the power for my ranch until I get the wind and solar together.  I'm tickled with it now that its together and I am looking forward to finding out how it runs.  Still waiting for the tach and the Kill-a-watt. 


3
Listeroid Engines / Re: The run in on the Frankinlister
« on: October 30, 2008, 04:38:28 AM »
Ok here are a few pictures of the drip-oiler and the oil filter on the Frankinlister.

I added the oil pump to the Aswamegh case purely to run an oil filter.  I ran it through a separate mount spin on oil filter then back to the engine through the bolt hole over the off side cam bushing.  All the books say that this is a poorly oiled bearing and this supplies a clean flow of oil right were it is needed the most.  The pictures show the pump and filter (before the flywheels went back on) and the fitting and hose which returns the oil.

http://www.imagecoast.com/images/renospeedster/oilfilter.jpg

http://www.imagecoast.com/images/renospeedster/oilreturn.jpg


The drip-oiler serves two functions.  First, what is a stationary engine without a drip-oiler?  Second, the valve assembly supplied with my engine was junk.  So I machined a new valve block that is square and made a new rocker shaft out of O1 tool steel.  In the process I got rid of the grease cup and spring assembly in favor of a properly fitted shaft and an oil fitting.  The shaft is tight enough that the oil in the line does not drip out very quickly (over night the oil in the line went down by about ½ inch) but the oil holes on the top of rocker arms stay full.  I made a bracket out of plate and angle iron and pinched it between head and the intake manifold.  It seems to work like a champ.  Here is a picture of the setup.

www.imagecoast.com/gallery.php?g=Lister&u=renospeedster&i=dripoiler1.jpg

4
Listeroid Engines / The run in on the Frankinlister
« on: October 27, 2008, 03:55:34 AM »
Well, today I went out with the new motor mount for the ST5 and fitted everything up.  It took way longer than I expected of course but in the end the belt was on and the gen head ready to go.  I went through the engine and checked everything before starting and it looked good.  I flashed the gen to get residual magnitism and wired the head to a plug then fired it up.  I plugged in my air-compressor and a drill press and ran it for half an hour.  I don't have my laser tachometer yet but I did a rough speed adjustment, varying the speed periodically.  When I started there was a little white smoke with each exhaust stroke but by the end of the half hour the exhaust was essentally clear.  The valve lifters turn, the exhaust spins like a top!  My oil pump and filter system works great as does the new valve block and drip oiler set-up.  There were a few little leaks to take care of, exhaust and cooling lines, but they were easily sorted.  The thermostat seems to be working fine as does the thermosyphon.  The top of the radiator got quite hot (along with the head) but the lower part was cooler.  In addition to the thermostat I can controll the waterflow with a couple of ball valves I put in the cooling lines (so I could drain just the engine if needed).  I need to check the timing of the injection pump to make sure that it is optimum and I will set the RPM as soon as my tach comes.  Now I can wire the pannel and install some plugs in the engine shed.

The only thing that seems a little off is that the cheap chinese voltmeter on the gen head is reading about 90-95 volts.  This could be due to low RPM or a bad meter.  I need to test it with a Kill-a-Watt once the pannel is wired.  Still, it was a good day.

5
Generators / Re: Check me on the bolt spacing for my ST5
« on: October 17, 2008, 06:21:17 PM »
Well, that serves me right for writing a post sp late.  The measurement is 254 MM (not 354) which does translate to 10 inches.    What I'm asking is anyone can check this on an ST5 before I make this.

6
Generators / Check me on the bolt spacing for my ST5
« on: October 17, 2008, 06:52:22 AM »
I am making a bracket for my ST5 but I left the manual out at the ranch and I can't measure it till I get back out there.   But... I need to make the bracket before then.  So,  I looked on line and found a manual which says that the hole spacing is 354 mm which calculates to 10 inches.  Can anyone confirm this for me so I can make this thing?  Thanks

7
Listeroid Engines / Re: Yipee! The Frankenlister ran today!
« on: October 16, 2008, 06:06:50 AM »
Yes, its been a long time coming.  Getting her working is the idea, its job is to make electricity for the ranch.  I have to make a new generator mount (missed it by that much!).  Once thats on I will get it broken in with a little load on it.  Today I just got it fired and let it tick over for a minute or so at very low speed.  I know its best to do this with a load on but there we are.  I will get some pictures up when its in tune.  I think folks will like the drip oiler running to my new rocker arm assembly.

8
Listeroid Engines / Yipee! The Frankenlister ran today!
« on: October 16, 2008, 04:42:58 AM »
A while back I put up a post about a missing compression stroke.  Well today I went out to check it out and found that everything was just as it should be.  I just was not getting any compression when I rolled it over slowly, but when I spun it up the compression stroke was there. I think its just that the rings are not seated in.  So, I put in some fuel and bled the lines and kicked it over and it started right up!  I still need to get the throttle assembly adjusted and get a tach so I can get it dialed in, but first smoke,  what a great feeling.

9
Listeroid Engines / Re: Missing a compression stroke.
« on: September 09, 2008, 06:02:32 PM »
Both lifters have a tiny bit of play when on the heal of the cam, so they are not holding the valve open. I have not dialed them in yet so I can't tell you what the clearence is, probably arround 5/1000.  I didn't set the exhaust with the hold open on. The valves are fully closing when the lifters are on the heal of the cam.  The head is in tip top shape, decked, properly fitted valve guides, new head gasket, and as I said had excellent compression before I put the lifter rods on.  At first I thought it might have been something simple like a leak arround the injector or the cross over valve (in my case one of George's glow plugs) but there is no air leaking from them and the bronze washers are fine.

I thought I timed it correctly using George's manual but I think I am off.  Best I can think of.

10
Listeroid Engines / Missing a compression stroke.
« on: September 09, 2008, 04:26:06 PM »
Check my thinking here.  I did the final assembly of the top end yesterday after noon (checked the TDC with a dial caliper, marked the flywheel, installed and torqued the head and installed the rocker arm assembly) Before the rocker assembly went on I had plenty of compression and effectively couldn't turn the flywheel through a compression stroke.  Once the valve train was on I seem to have lost the compression stroke.  With the exhaust valve hold open off, I can turn the flywheel quite easily through what should be the compression stroke.  My thought is that I have the cam timing off so that the valves are opening at the wrong time, negating the compression.   I know there is a way to set the valve timing by degree but I didn't have time yesterday to sort it out yesterday.

11
Listeroid Engines / Looking for heavy fly wheels
« on: July 30, 2008, 06:51:06 PM »
My Ashwamegh came with the spoke flywheels and I would like to get a set of heavy wheels to counteract light flicker.  Are they available as parts?  I'd rather get them on the west coast (where I could go pick them up).  If this does not work I can go the route of buying an engine with the heavy wheels as a spare and swap the wheels out.

12
Listeroid Engines / Re: Hint: How to hold gib keys in place
« on: July 29, 2008, 06:03:17 PM »
However the gib key is designed to stay in place if it is fitted correctly.  A lot of lower powered drives use parallel keys nowadays - and probably a lot of higher powered machines as well.  They are quicker to change but would not be quite so good in the cyclic environment of a chugging Lister, I think.  Yes they taper-fit shafts and flywheels too - just positioned with a woodruff key and tightened onto the taper.  They all work good if they are fitted appropriately in the first place.  By all means use a collar to prevent the flywheel coming off the shaft,  if you need to worry about the way the job has been done. 

Regards, RAB
Quote


Well, the downside of loosing a flywheel could be extreamly large.  You could kill somone or destroy a lot of property if a wheel came off.  Personnaly, I don't care how well a key is fit, I still worry about it.  Putting an outside collar on the shaft is cheap insurance.  Is it the only way to go?  No, but its a good one and there is no down side.

13
Listeroid Engines / Re: Hint: How to hold gib keys in place
« on: July 26, 2008, 05:47:14 AM »
I have a set of these for mine as well.  I also found them very handy for measuring the bearing lash on the crank.  Put the collar on, stick the magnetic base on the case and read the play directly with a dial gauge.

Oh, and they make these as split collars, using two screws.  This allows you to take the collars off simply by removing two screws.  Especially usefull in removing the collar on the back side of the flywheel.


14
Listeroid Engines / Re: Check engine speed at very 1st start!
« on: July 09, 2008, 04:49:41 PM »
Hey Rab, the laser tach is simple, spend $25,  install tape, point, pull trigger.  There is also nothing wrong with an exact RPM.   The danger of the count method is that you need to let the engine run a bit to know if its overspeed.  This can be pretty damned dangerous. 

15
Engines / Re: how thick to pour concrete foundation
« on: July 05, 2008, 02:56:39 AM »
I poured a 5x10 foot slab with an 8" thick slab with rebar on 16 inch centers and a 12 inch thick border 24 inches deep.  I ran some rebar in the slab which projected up out of the slab which I pourderd into a block about 20" x 36" and app 16" tall.  This wat the block was tied into the slab.  The block raised the crankshaft high enough that I don't need to stoop over to crank the engine.  If anything I should have made the block a litte higher (I'm 6'3').  You can see some pictures of my setup over on the listeroid engines page under "some pictures of my engine."  We will see how it works out once I get it running.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 11