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Messages - mikenash

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Petteroids / Re: LPWS3 exhaust manifold > silencer gasket
« on: Today at 09:12:26 AM »
what about using manifold sealant goop such as "Maniseal" - effectively the same material as is used to assemble wood-stoves etc.  That's what it's for?  Have a google, maybe?  Is the water under pressure?


Good thoughts, Bruce, thanks

Now that I have had a few of them apart I'm happier to regard them as a bit of a kitset - so 3/1 or 6/1 probably the only real change might have to be the injector?  Maybe not - governor might sort it?

My current solar setup (the learning-curve setup) has AGM.  We'll see what I think of it over time I guess


I should have commented, yes, that is an odd-looking sleeve assembly . . .

There's still life in the barrel and the piston assy looks good - probably I can find someone with a 3/1 who can use them - and maybe the head, if that's what it is


Hi Bruce

At the site where it is sitting there is work to be done supporting solar when the sun don't shine or when loads are high.  This is up at my Bay of Plenty "retirement plan" site.  Sounds grand but really just a paddock with a workshop & a shed and a spring-fed elevated water supply at 2 bar - plus it's sited in the "sunniest" part of NZ - so all-in-all a wonderful potential off-grid site

It's bolted down to a big 6" X 12" RSJ /I-beam frame on a concrete pad.  So I'd like to use the bottom end at least and, superficially, it feels OK (no movement to be felt leaning on the wheels or rattling the rod/big-end etc)

I have a good +40 thou barrel and I recently bought a new +40 thou piston assembly from England.  Plus I have an original CS 6/1 head with good-ish valves and seats - so those bits can go on.  The head has a glow plug in place of its COV valve so calculating squish to get the compression just right may be a bit of a trial-and-error

I can probably just put all those bits together for a good result.  There's a new Bosch/Mico pump & a new injector already there for it

I have a couple of monster (about 90A I think?) new Leece-Neville bus alternators that wouldn't take too much mounting, so it can make DC for batteries.  And I have a couple of 5kVA-ish heads - an ST clone and a nice Markon - either of which can potentially sit there and make some AC

Should I live long enough for the day to come that I have both time and money, I'd like to pour a bigger, deeper pad so that the "feet" of the I-beams are actually sunk into it and build a wee shed around it - but that's a fair way down the to-do list

I do have another good-runner 6/1 sitting in the yard at home doing nothing - but the things are heavy and it's 400Ks away; so I'm thinking to persevere with the bottom-end of the one that's already bolted down for the moment

The good thing about playing with the old motors is that I think one gets a bit of a feel for what is tolerable/acceptable wear/clearance etc on these forgiving old engines - partly by looking at the state of them as they are torn down and in which state they had presumably been running . . . and a feeling for just how simple it is to get them running OK-ish.  The devil will be in the detail of getting squishes just right, getting the governor linkages to make some sort of constant HZ - that sort of thing

Lots of good advice here in the WOK and elsewhere on all that stuff, of course

And, of course, every time I find an engine and take it to bits there are potentially a few "spares" to go on the shelf at worst - even if most of it is junk


Hi again guys

We talked a little about this engine a while back.  Compression was low & I was going to strip it to see what was happening

I did this and was surprised to find a 3 & piston and (I think) sleeved cylinder.  Cylinder surface is pretty good.  Rings were stuck but they & the piston came up OK.  Measured at the bottom of the cylinder theres between 0.49 and 0.54mm (about 20 thou?) ring gap

As commented-upon it has the old-style head with two rocker shaft pedestals

When I started cleaning the barrel, I began by spraying Brakleen everywhere & blowing it dry with the compressed air.  When I did this, black oil residue seeped out between the block and the sleeve at the base.  See pic?  It continued to do this as I continued to clean

This makes me think its a barrel re-bored & with a 3 & sleeve pressed in?  Or is that the normal 3/1 construction?

The combustion chamber orifice is a different shape to what I am used to seeing, too.

Crank and big-end and rod and pin feel good, so I could easily just put my alloy-piston sort-of 8/1 piston and cylinder on there.  I wonder if the head is useable?

Id be interested to know folks thoughts on that head?  Is it an old one?  If it is, does that matter?  Or maybe its a 3/1 head?  And, if it is, does that matter either?

Id be interested in some wisdom


Everything else / Re: ESD 5500E engine speed controller unit
« on: July 17, 2019, 08:55:41 AM »
Dunno if it's worth mentioning, but some of the big diesel engine controllers we use take a RPM signal off the alternator.

More revs = more hz I guess

General Discussion / Re: Welding on clean DC
« on: July 07, 2019, 03:50:20 PM »
Hey Bruce, I hadn't realised you were dabbling in oxy/acetylene as well . . .

Check out this product "steel brazing rod"

See specs?  Especially temp chart?

The general engineer up the road used to use it for things like repairs to truck parts.  Said it was really strong & caused less distortion than arc welding in some of his applications

Possibly a mild steel solution up to maybe 5mm or more

Not necessarily that particular product of course - that's just one vendor's take on things.  Maybe google "steel brazing rods" or something like that?


General Discussion / Re: Welding on clean DC
« on: July 07, 2019, 03:36:47 AM »
Hey Bruce - stupid question perhaps. but are these old-fashioned type of welder somethinh you can tolerate?

No electronics, obviously.  And I wondered if the pull-in-and-out (voltage?) adjustment might serve you in some way to modify your DC

I would guess there are still a few rattling around Old Farts' workshops


Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Resurrection of a Lister 12/2
« on: July 06, 2019, 11:36:41 AM »
Impressive-looking business

I'm sure it will be good, but I'd be surprised if it was cheap?

Changfa Engines / Re: New Watercooled Diesel Toys
« on: June 30, 2019, 08:25:08 AM »
Can anyone work out why I procrastinate and get myself in a tizz? 

I'll give it some thought,


Take your time on that, Stef.  Don't get worked up about it . . .

General Discussion / Re: Welding on clean DC
« on: June 30, 2019, 06:01:51 AM »
If you have a 50A problem you can probably go from 2.5mm to 3.2mm rods (or imperial equivalent?)  You'll be surprised what you can get away with if you think in terms of moving the heat around a lot.  Much more than you would normally think to do.  Cheers

General Discussion / Re: Welding on clean DC
« on: June 30, 2019, 04:24:38 AM »
I had to replace the Optima yellow top in my car; 6 yrs old and seems to have an open cell.

I thought it was prime for some welding experiments.  I opened some of the top with a carbide burr, and soldered a copper tab to the center lead connector to make a center tap at 6V.  Then cut a slit in the lid I removed for the copper tab and duct taped the lid back on.  One 6V side had the bad cell (open under the slightest load but looks fine on volt meter) , as expected, but the other side is in great shape still.

Welding on 30V was an entirely different experience; long arcing is easy, but it's TOO HOT, easy to over penetrate, more spatter/spray. I need to see how it goes on 1/8" rods on 1/4 steel, and practice more with 7018 now that I can long arc and move the electrode around. I did try some 6011 and at 30V it's too hot for 3/32 6011; it eats up the rod fast and I can hardly keep up lest I burn through.  On 24V 6011 just won't stay lit. I can see now why arc welders have adjustable current regulation...dialing it in for any rod and material sure would make things easier.

I may open up the Optima again and solder copper tabs at 2V and 4V (26V and 28V total) to give them a whirl.

Here's a thought for you, Bruce

This is something often done when you are welding and find that you have set the welder 5 amps too high but you're in the middle of something a bit critical, or just don't want to stop

It also used to be common when setting the amps wasn't as easy as just turning a dial

And it's a common technique in positional welding . . .

You can really only get away with it with Low Hydrogen rods as they won't leave you with slag inclusions

Now, as you're working, there's a point at which you have gotten 100% of the penetration you can with your weld, and the whole puddle is just about to turn too liquid and fall through - leaving a big hole.  Just before this point, you normally keep moving forward with your weld/puddle, and that's how you know you have gotten a good penetration etc (I'm over-simplifying here, but you get it . . . )

If the welder is turned a bit low, you can sort of sit there moving the puddle from side to side and making slow forward progress and a so-so weld - within reason

But if it's too hot, your options are limited.  What sort of happens is that, to avoid making a too-hot, too-liquid puddle and having it all just fall away, you tend to move forward faster than you might like - so that the new, cold metal is taking the heat away from the puddle constantly.  You tend to end up with a thin, scrappy weld

But what you can do - if you have Low Hydrogen rods - is move ahead a bit to where new, cold metal pulls some of the heat out of your puddle - and then move back . . .

It only takes a small fraction of a second for your weld puddle to cool from liquid to plastic (sort of) . . .

So if you start your weld and work along, watching as it gets "too" hot - then quickly move the electrode forward, sliding along the metal so you don't lose that arc, about maybe a half an inch - then come back to your puddle which has cooled in the fraction  of a second your arc was away from it, and is now just a perfect temperature to carry on welding for another second or so - then move forward quickly another half inch - then back to your weld . . . and so on . . .

What's happening is that you're depositing little bits of weld on the metal "ahead" of your weld and then coming along a second or so later and welding over them.  If the whole thing is nice and hot and you keep your arc short and you're using Low Hydrogen rods - it's a controllable process and weld quality can still be very good

It's a technique often used on "vertical up" welding, where, because the "work" is vertical not horizontal, the tendency for the weld puddle to "fall down" is much exaggerated.  When the puddle gets too hot - you just move away from it for a quarter or a third of a second or some such and then come back to it as it cools . . .

If you have a google, somewhere there will be temperature charts for the process of arc welding and, because your hot weld is surrounded by cold metal, that cooling from "too hot" to "just right" happens very very fast once the heat source (the arc) is removed

Once you get your head around the physics of what's happening (and you'll understand that better than I do) you can see that moving ahead a little or a lot is an easy way to do a good weld with an arc that's "too hot" and is quite a controllable process

If you watch a video of a pipeline welder "keyholing" a root run - basically blowing right through and then filling back in in one action , so as to be assured of 100% penetration, that's sort of the same process

Have a "play", you'll see

As your weld puddle forms a

Changfa Engines / Re: New Watercooled Diesel Toys
« on: June 28, 2019, 09:41:51 PM »
Sorry, I have that wrong

one + two + three = PCD

Changfa Engines / Re: New Watercooled Diesel Toys
« on: June 28, 2019, 08:40:13 PM »
PCD of three holes:

PCD = Pitch Centre Diameter so it's the diameter of a circle that you could draw that would pass through the centre of your three holes (excuse me if you already know this)

(1) clean the shaft with emery & measure the diameter with verniers - that's dimension one

(2) Use the stem of the vernier to measure from the shaft out to the inner edge of each hole.  Average these three to minimise measuring inaccuracy - that's dimension two

(3) Do the same with the vernier to the outside edge of each hole and average as above - dimension three

(4) (dimension two + dimension three) divided by two, plus dimension one, is PCD - or as close as you'll get by measuring

FWIW it's effectively impossible to measure anything to the centre of a hole but usually OK to measure to each edge, add and then halve . . .

Changfa Engines / Re: New Watercooled Diesel Toys
« on: June 28, 2019, 11:28:46 AM »
I think a brake disc may crack if you ask it to accept flex loads . . .

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