Lister Engine Forum
Lister Engines => Lister Based Generators => Topic started by: Buryan on June 18, 2019, 12:41:40 AM
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Hi - does anyone have a 40 Amp blade fuse for the starting of my ST2, please and also a push starter button, that I could buy? Can anyone tell me where I can get a fuse or a modern equivalent? Presumable as long as the fuse is rated for a continuous 24 volts and 40 amps - anything that said it would do that - would do that!?
I use the generator everyday for power, so need this as a matter of urgency. I rang Sleeman and Hawkins, but they could no longer help with the fuse and wanted an extortionate sum for the starter button!
If anyone can help me, would they be kind enough to e-mail me on:
k.runcimanannand@gmail.com
This machine at 7 Kva does not give me sufficient electricity - I need to sell it (or swap it - it's in jolly good nick!) for a 3 cylinder to flash my welder - can anyone help, please?
Many thanks.
Buryan aka Kenneth.
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How about using a circuit breaker ?
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I had the same problem and made the following modification.
Bob
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Hi Kenneth, I just had a thought about you starter switch. spring loaded 40 Amp switches are going to be hard to come by however 24 volt truck starter solenoids are cheap and available everywhere. Fit one of them with a cheap spring loaded toggle switch wired to the solenoid coil and you should be good to go. You could even use an ignition switch, with a key from your local scrap yard.
Bob
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Dear Bob,
Many thanks for you excellent suggestion - will follow it up. One of the problems is that the windowless corner of the workshop where the Lister sits is like the dark hole of Calcutta and very difficult to see what's in that box! I need to wire in a work lamp.
Very kind of you to help and much obliged.
Kenneth.
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Bob - looking again at your informative pic - I also looked up on the net, the fuse you are using - may I ask why you have installed a 250 A fuse? It seems to be rated at 80vdc, as well. It also seems to cost $49.90!! I thought I was looking for a 40 A fuse at 24volts if a bit above. Confused!
Kenneth.
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Would this do the trick, do you think, please? Ir is rated at 40A and 32v - it is for trucks - so must be DC.
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Yes, that should be fine for a 40A 24V use. I'm wondering though.. Bob does 1st rate work and a starter with only 40 amps of 24V would be pretty puny.
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Hi Guys, the reason I went with such a large fuse was that it was what I had available at the time. I had no way of knowing what the true rating of the fuse should be as the old one was missing. I checked out the cold cranking requirements of a bunch of
standard starter motors and found that most pull around 100 Amps so I guessed that 150 would be plenty. I might have to consider changing this for something a little less robust.
Bob
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Bob,
do not cut your wrists. Life is short ... and we're all in the same boat.
At least I already know that I'm going to die from cardio-respiratory arrest... Everyone does... LOL
however, I will put a fresh rosé to keep my heart happy and oiled,
Cheers
VP
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I think I am confused again - but it doesn't take much - I'm on morphine (for a stomach bug)!! - but thanks for the helpful input.
My Lister starts, close-coupled (I have no separate starter motor bolted on) and with the decompressors activated, the cold- cranking amps to turn the engine over can't be all that much - increasing, I suppose, briefly, when the first lever is shoved over, by which time it should be firing on 1? It is my humble submission that that is why the fuse is lowly rated - but Iv'e no idea as how many amps are being pulled to turn it over - I haven't an ammeter that beefy - any one else speculate? I do not have 'start-o-matic' on the machine - unfortunately.
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If 40A was on there and it was working and not blowing the fuse- fine. But maybe that's why you're looking for a new fuse?
The newer clamp on digital amp meters are pretty great, many have 200A+ capability. I have one that goes down to milliamps too, very handy for checking small DC circuitry. Mine has a zero button to clear hall effect sensor drift; it's pretty accurate for DC.
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Hi Buryan, In another thread about building a SR2 start-o-matic generator setup, the blade fuse is shown in the top box. It is rated at 60 Amps. The SR2 is a less powerful engine than the ST2 and would require less cranking amps than yours.
When I first got mt ST2 the top box had a large piece of aluminium used as a replacement for the fuse, this probably explains the burned earth wiring in the bottom of the box! (see photo)
Bob
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Given Bob's experience, it sounds like 80A might be a better choice. The fuse for glow plugs on 1985 MB diesels might be just the thing. It's a precision cut piece of aluminum, $3.
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/SC/6184-08032245.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=SC&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1977-1985+Mercedes+300D+Diesel+Glow+Plug+Fuse+Pudenz+77-85+Mercedes+Diesel+Glow+Plug+Fuse+1983+1980&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIudyRq6f54gIVisVkCh2d9QdzEAQYASABEgIVc_D_BwE
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Haha - I like the cut of it's jib!
My (original) large round wound fuse is there - someone seems to have done something with it and it's arced out at solenoid end and melted some copper - - for a while, on dark and stormy nights I held it down with a broom handle and pressed the starter switch (hanging low out of the box of tricks), with the other hand, until the latter fell off - - since when I have been starting by the swinging method!!! Can't do that in he winter when the oil is thick - need the self starter then - so I am thinking ahead - - .
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I APOLOGISE!
When I finally removed this large old fuse carrier and put my glasses on I realise my mistake - it is or should be a 60 AMP fuse, although someone has wired in a huge piece thick copper!
I took a photo, but it wont download!
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Hi Buryan, there is no need to apologize for anything, you asked a perfectly reasonable question and received a variety of answers. I am glad you finally resolved the issue and taught me something I did not know.
Bob