Lister Engine Forum
Slow Speed Diesel Engines => Changfa Engines => Topic started by: Tanman on February 22, 2019, 04:31:06 PM
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Hello fellow diesel addicts,
My first engine is arriving next Tuesday (thank you old seagull man) and I'm excited to start piecing together my first generator build. The goal for the build is longevity, fuel flexibility, and adaptability. I really want a power system that is tough as nails, isn't picky on fuel, and I can harvest multiple forms of energy off of. What I mean by adaptable is that I could have it running a 10-15kw head normally and be switched to turn an alternator to charge a battery bank in the future if needed and be able to harvest the heat from the water cooling. I would love to get one of those metal plates that allows you to run a radiator (or preferably a large barrel). I have a couple questions that I need the wisdom of my elders to solve.
1. Advice for acquiring a proper gen-head
2. Is utter power the only place that sells the cooling conversion plates?
3. Does anyone run a barrel for a radiator on their Chinese horizontal?
4. Any helpful advice for the project considering it's goals.
Thank you for taking the time to read this post, and keeping one of the coolest diy/engine forums I have found alive!
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One reason I really like the water cooling is the side effect of being able to easily heat water off grid, with that in mind, what type of cooling would be the easiest to harvest hot water off of do you think?
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I really wish I could get my hands on an indirect hot water cylinder in Australia. In the UK they are the norm, they are a sealed and insulated unit with one or more electric heater elements in them, some are for mains water pressure and some are for low pressure (gravity fed systems). The most important thing they have going for them is a copper heating coil which is built into the unit, these are usually connected to a gas, oil or solid fuel boiler. It would be so easy to connect one of these to a diesel engine using a small header tank or expansion bottle, thus the coolant in the engine could run antifreeze without it contaminating the hot water supply, two completely separate systems with an electric heating backup. A perfect solution if only they were available here.
Bob
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Nobody that I am aware of is selling the plates, you ha e to make one or have it made. Due to the wide bolt spacing you need at least 3/8 thick steel to prevent leaks and 1/2" is better. Looking down at the plate the inlet and outlet needs to be on opposite corners with the outlet being closest to the head. Having the return pipe extend down past the plate a ways will insure it flows tbe correct way upon first start. I had trouble with mine trying to flow backwards until I modified it. I will add some pics later when I am not using data.
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I will add some pics later when I am not using data.
Please do!
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Here are some rather poor pictures of my 1115 15KW stand by set. The radiator, fan and control switch all came from an automotive application and were about $100 new. I can find out which one if need be.
The engine and belt driven head are nessled under a stairway in my work shop.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/oqfukl.jpg)
Close up of the shop made plate. Hot water rises in the left nipple and cooled water returns in the right one. The temp sender is 205F and controls the radiator fan. There is zero need for a thermostat in these horizontal applications. The engine warms up quickly and the fan control keeps the temps constant within tne range of the senders range.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2nqxylh.jpg)
The fan and radiator set up. You must provide and tank above tbe radiator with most radiators to ensure that coolant is always over the top hose or it doesnt work. Certain older radiators made for Thermosyphon operation will have the tank built in.
(http://i65.tinypic.com/10mtnxg.jpg)
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Sorry about the large size pics i neglected to resize them
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Sorry about the large size pics i neglected to resize them
Thank you for posting!
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The crate arrived today! I will be cracking it open tomorrow and putting some pics up. Now I'm going to start looking for a generator head. I'm debating on whether to get a 7.5 or 10kw head. I plan on running it slower that the rated speed 1800rpm for normal operation and would love to run it slower. Would running the engine slow and turning a smaller head make a big difference in fuel consumption vs. the 10kw head?
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I am a big fan of running a generator head that will actually stall your diesel engine. This is because the wire gauge in the larger generator is bigger with better slip rings and brushes. The problem of stalling can be overcome by fitting an appropriately rated micro circuit breaker between the generator and load, this will trip out before your engine stalls.
Economy is determined by the load applied not by the RPM the engine runs at, running it slower will reduce the available output but will also increase the longevity of your setup.
Bob
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The point of lowering engine speed is not fuel economy, it is to match the (smaller) load to engine output, which is especially important for diesel engines, which won't last long on light loads.
I think it's member Veggie who made a very nice setup with dual pulleys so the diesel engine could be better matched to different loads.
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You can absolutely throttle the engine back. Under light loadings it will save a bit of fuel but the bigger issue is noise. A 1115 up against the stops is one obnoxious sob. My set up runs just under 1800 rpm. The larger ones like the 1115 are equipped with balance shafts and you should keep the RPM above the gear rattle stage. Also keep in mind that the injection timing is set for factory RPM thus long hours at heavy loadings and reduced RPM would benefit from retarding the timing a bit.
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Hello all, can anyone please measure the diameter of the 1115 flywheel?
Has anyone tried driving the gen-head off the engine flywheel rim like we do with the Listeroids?
I am trying to get a rough idea of the size pulley that would be needed for the alternator in order to reduce engine operating RPM.
I don't have a Chinese horizontal yet, but I've been drooling over the 1130's on Alibaba.com and I hope to have two along with some spares by the time my birthday rolls around.
I figure I could reduce the RPM on that monster and still run most anything in the house.
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So I'm still stuck between a 7.5kw and 10kw head, either one would be plenty of power for me. If they are both rated at their respective power at 1800rpm, would it be better to pony up for the 10kw and run it at 1400-1500rpm (with WI and timing adjustment) if my main goal for this build is longevity? Also, here are some pics of the engine fresh out of the crate and mounted to a dolly for working on and moving around.
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I run a 15KW on mine. Don't need that many and the engine wouldn't pull it if I did. The extra capacity does two things for you. It helps start motor loads such as water pumps or A/C units and you have more amps available to either 110 volt branch circuit when wired for 220 operation which saves on load management.
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At some point, windage looses from the huge fan in the 20kw head becomes more of a load then your electrical. I'd only go up 1 size from your engine
I've a 6/1 which pairs to a 3Kw, but I went with a 5kw, to be able to manage unbalanced loads a bit better, and not run the windings smoking hot. If I went to a 7.5kw it would still generate the 3kw my engine can produce, but now I'm running a bigger fan, moving more air, and maybe the engine can only pull 2.7kw
I'm just pulling number out of the sky here, but the alternator cooling fan is NOT a negligible load, I think 1 step up is enough unless you have a special need.
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Any recommendations on ST head suppliers? Also, 38AC where did you get your pulley for the st side of your 1115 setup?
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I purchase bits like that on ebay, seems there is always somebody on there with my needs for give away prices. Figure out what diameter you need and how many grooves, and include QD bushing in your search. Then search for a bushing by type, SD,SH etc, and by your shaft size in MM.
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Mike , you may be right a out the fan but my gut tells me different. The fan on my st15 is it only 2" larger than my st5. I suspect that the power requirement at 1800 RPM is fractional. Again, nothing but my intuition with no facts to back it up.
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She ran today! After struggling to take the fuel pump apart, I soaked it in diesel for 2 days, put on a thick glove and smashed it against a 2x4. It finally came loose after about 6 hits. I cleaned it, reassembled and the engine ran. The only problem was it wouldn’t turn off or idle down, so I shut off the fuel and it slowly wound down and died. I removed the pump again to try and figure it out but I am stumped. It seems that there is just very little control over the amount of fuel being pumped. I’m not sure if I need to adjust the ring with teeth on the inside of the pump or if it is defective.
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Have you the parts, instruction manual that came with your engine there is an exploded view of the pump in it.
Thats how i did mine. if not im shore i have a pdf of the 1115 engine somewhere. just let me kn ow. Ok.
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So I figured out the issue. There are many ways the notched part of the pump with the small teeth all around is fit into the pump, one common way is for the notches to be horizontal, the other is the have them vertical. Mine needed the notches to be vertical and for the plunger (inner piece with the diagonal cut across it) to have the cut section facing up. I had to try it in every common combination to find the correct configuration, because the manual states what order the pump goes together but not which way the plunger is supposed to be rotated to begin with. No problems now ;D
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Well done Tanman, the application of a little brain power usually sorts these things out. I recently rebuilt a Bosch injector pump, the original parts all had witness marks to show the correct alignment. The service kit that I purchased from Bosch had none, bugger of a job counting teeth and etc to get it back together right.
Bob
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So now that the engine is running correctly, I'm going to turn my attention to building a frame, acquiring a gen head, and getting other accessories like a pulley. The frame and genny are pretty straight forward. I am a little confused on pulleys. I'm going with the same size and grooves as the the one that came stock on the engine based on Mr. Calder's advice. But are the shafts on the gen heads and the pulley's that go on them pretty universal on size and design? I've never done anything with pulleys and belts besides accessories on cars like alternators and they come with pulleys.
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Question: how bad are the bearings and bushings on these engines, should I replace some of them ahead of time to save me heartake down the road? I just read an article about these self destructing predictably at around 1000 hours do to bearing failures.
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It is impossible to say that the bearings need replaced or not or at what hours due to the fact there are huge quality differences brand to brand. The bearings that gave the most trouble are the balance shafts. If you are bothered with it take the engine down and replace them with quality bearings.
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Thanks 38AC, I must be getting cold feet with the project lol, wondering if the thing is going to explode in my face after some moderate use and if I should have started with a listeroid instead for this project. I think I read somewhere that you had a machine of the same brand? Jiang Dong, if so, how has your experience been with that machine?
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The best 195 I ever had my hands on was a Jiang Dong. Now of you want to lay your hands on the Cadilac that would be the LaiDong 1115. I was lucky enough to get one from John Ferguson before he sold out to Jim Calder, it is in storage while my stand by set is powered by the Changfa clone.
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The next step in the project has just taken place. I scored an 8kw genuine Stamford for $200 with a frame and v-belt pulley with it!
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Sweet deal, and a predictably good generator head.
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Another aspect of the project I have been kicking around is tapping the oil pan and running a DC electric pump to circulate the oil through an oil filter and then back into the pan. I imagine the pros are 1. lower pressure compared to the factory oil lines, opens up the possibility to use more standard parts that don't need a super high pressure rating and 2. You don't mess with the factory oil lines and system at all. Downsides: 2 holes in my oil pan?
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Had some time this weekend and made a lot of progress on the project.