Lister Engine Forum
How to / DIY => Generators => Topic started by: guest22972 on February 18, 2019, 08:20:22 AM
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I'm wanting to hook up my 170 Kg Induction motor and my 70 Kg engine with belt drive and build a mounting frame for them.
Thinking of wood as I think it will clang a lot less and I have some good size material for the job. also have some over size rectangular box.
Mountings on motor and engine are substantially different so one will require cross rails.
I'm thinking instead of mounting one on a rail so it can slide for belt tension ( and work loose as well) I would hard mount both and use a tensioner on the belt to take up the slack.
I was also thinking of a spring tensioner off a car cam belt or an accessories drive but could also go a fixed tensioner.
The belt is an A series on both pulleys but only a single on the engine drive and 6" on the engine and a 5" on the motor. Motor is 1440 RPM so thinking of a smaller 4" twin so I can get the engine revs up a bit onto the power curve ( engine is 2600 RPM rated) and twin belts to carry the load.
I think the bolt down both sides and use a tensioner will be a lot easier , stronger and require less maintence.
Surprised the motor only has A's but i'm not going to try and change it that's for sure even though it is a taper lock.
What's the consensus? Rail or tensioner belt adjustment, spring or fixed if tensioner?
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Before you stick with the single A section belt have a glance at this for speeds size a nd service factor
https://www.bestorq.com/Library/.../V-Belt%20Quick%20Selection%20Guide.pdf
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Bugger seems to have disappeared since last night. Must be using the NBN or Telstra
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I do know a bit about it I worked for PMG Telecom Telstra for 30 years and when I was made redundant at age 50 I heaved a sigh of relief because the bean counters were running the show and not technically qualified people. The people in charge had forgotten that it was a service industry and decided P.R. was more important than a reliable network. This means we end up paying higher service charges or cop substandard service from a deteriorating copper network which everybody outside major towns still has. At the moment NBN own Telstra's copper network but have no workforce to maintain it subcontracting this to Telstra with a decimated poorly trained staff or whever will do it cheapest.
Have to stop just fell off my soapbox
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Just about to ring them reluctantly as I know I'll have to deal with some mouthpiece robot from a call centre in Rajakot who will insist the network is fine and it must be my machine that is the problem as waste my time asking me to do dumb obvious things like reboot the modem and the machine.
Oh, I feel you there... I had an issue with my internet router a while back; it would work fine for between 5 mins - 2 hours, then crap out and need rebooting. So you can imagine the conversation with the call centre....
Me: My router fails a few minutes after it's been rebooted.
CC: Ok sir, Sir I need you to be rebooting your router now sir please.
Me: It'll work after I reboot it, but it'll fail a little later on.
CC: Yes, sir, you can reboot your router please now, sir.
Me: *sigh* OK, I'm rebooting it.
[a few moments later]
CC: Ah yes we can see your router is connecting now. I have fixed your problem thank you for your call good bye.
Me: *fuming*
Third time I just lied and said I'd rebooted it (and lied when he said reboot my computer). They sent me a new router. ;D Guess what.... that fixed the problem!
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I love the tensioner spring pulley in my truck, makes changing the serpentine belt all of a 3 minute job. Then it's good for another 80K miles. 120A alternator, air con, power steering & water pump. on the belt, figure a good 20 hp there
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And truth be known the V belt loss vs serp belt is so little different that it would take 24/7 operation, careful load management and fuel measurement to prove a savings.
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+1
I also think improved efficiency claims are mostly marketing fantasy.
I'm a convert to B-vee belts instead of serp. B belts have a wide enough section on the inside to ride flat on a CS type flywheel, and the cheaper B-Vee pulleys don't require as much belt tension, so generator bearing life will be better. My serp setup (without idler/tensioner) requires very high tension to avoid chirping. I used a B vee on my neighbor's DES 8/1 because I wasn't confident about our final engine rpm...now I'm sold on them.
I think serpentine belts are great for what they were designed for, multiple driven accessories.
They save a lot of space and some cost in that application.
Slotted bases sure are simple to build, and belt adjustment via loosened bolts and rubber mallet works for me. I haven't adjusted mine for years.
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I mounted my genhead with slots and a couple of 10mm bolts tapped into tags, welded to the rails to act as tensioners. It took a few minuets extra whilst knocking up the frame, makes tensioning and more importantly parallel alignment easy. After adjustment I locked them into position with a plain nut.
Cheers
Stef
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Hi Glort,
Only recommendation I have for rubber mounts is to solid bolt Engine/Genhead etc to chassis, then only rubber mount a subframe that has the things that are vibration sensitive, like the Radiator, PLC and electronics you are going to install on it as a load controller....
Cheers
Ed