Lister Engine Forum
Lister Engines => Original Lister Cs Engines => Topic started by: sirpedrosa on August 06, 2018, 03:20:45 PM
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Hello everyone
Following Tiger's advice, here's a new 12/2 topic.
This Sunday was a day to visit the old machine. (Acquisition under discussion) Due to not deteriorate much more, it was all sprayed with WD40 - for now - I will experiment later on the ATF / acetone.
Bad news are: the whole system of governor seized with rust;
a fuel pump element seized with rust;
the two intake Tappets seized with rust.
All this at the first glance.
It's going to be a lot of work.
I kindly ask to anyone in this forum the 12/2 manual in pdf format.
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I forgot,
Is missing also the return fuel line (was stolen cut, due the copper/brass), and the starting handle is somewhere that the owner don't remember.
Best Regards
Sirpedrosa
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Hey Sirpedrosa,
What a great project. I think the twin is the best looking of all the Listers. You've come to the right spot for informed guidance. (Not me, I'm just a Lister fan boy.)
Best Wishes,
Casey
I'm thinking you should be careful around paint you want to remain with the 50/50 release stuff.
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Hello Casey,
I recognize the 12/2 is a little beast (above 500kg), but this project means at lest to preserve history of my toddler time, as I had spent countless hours earring that POP/POP in my birth village.
But a single does't get out of my mind. One at time.
Please clarify me about that recipie of ATF/Acetone issues.
BR
Sirpedrosa
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I kindly ask to anyone in this forum the 12/2 manual in pdf format.
I have a couple of PDF's I can email you. One specifically calls out the 12/2 and I have an earlier version that list the 10/2(they are the same except for RPM. If you want to PM me your email address I will send them over to you.
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Greetings everyone
I would like to publicly acknowledge the support already given by BroncoDriver99.
See you later.
Pedrosa
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Hello everyone
Following Tiger's advice, here's a new 12/2 topic.
This Sunday was a day to visit the old machine. (Acquisition under discussion) Due to not deteriorate much more, it was all sprayed with WD40 - for now - I will experiment later on the ATF / acetone.
Bad news are: the whole system of governor seized with rust;
a fuel pump element seized with rust;
the two intake Tappets seized with rust.
All this at the first glance.
It's going to be a lot of work.
I kindly ask to anyone in this forum the 12/2 manual in pdf format.
Try this. A 12/2 is really, largely, just a couple of 6/1s
Se attachment
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Many thanks MikeNash
More good stuff to burn eyelashes.
Br
Pedrosa
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My dear friends
Do not get me wrong but I said earlier that I was going to take baby steps.
The historic rivalry between RA Lister and the Petter brothers can not fail to honor both in contributing to the advancement of technology.
So I looked for an acceptable price machine to honor the Petter brothers too, and today I went to get a PAZ1.
Not working because it is dry. In a few days I give him a drink to see if he is resuscitated.
At first glance it has good compression, but the blower casing accuses the hard work of moving a cement mixer for a few years. It has some patches and a lot of welds.
Here are some pictures. Please be complacent because this is not the right place, and as soon as possible I will open a new thread in the right place - even because I need help and literature.
It seems to me to have been a good deal. The cost of going fetch it and the temporary wheelbase, is already higher than the cost of the machine.
Now I need your support with the workshop manual for disassembly and assembly this PAZ1.
However the 12/2 is not forgotten, but it needs more manpower.
Best Regards to All
Pedrosa
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Greetings my good fellows
I started the new thread of my PETTER PAZ1 here: http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8333.msg95728#new
Fell free to enjoy.
Best regards to all
Pedrosa
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Greetings my good fellows
Today (at this time I mean yesterday) was one day of the days.
I'm officialy woner of a Lister 12/2 1957 - to restore.
Long exaust pipes are all ready off, fuel line and tank too.
To do list: manage some way to get it out of shed, seat it on a trolley and strip it down.
Best regards to all, and please be happy
VPedrosa
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Greetings my good fellows
Today (at this time I mean yesterday - again) was one day of the days (2*110miles).
Strip it down has begin!!!
after soaking for a few weeks.
Create some space in the shack ...
Exhaust pipes off, manifolds off, line fuel off, fuel tank off, decompressor levers off, rockers off, push roods off, governor connetings off (a few), fuel pumps off, and fuel pumps cleaning (a few minutes a go).
Next: figure out a way to get it home...
Best regards to all, and please be happy
VPedrosa
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Some more pictures...
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One last question for the community:
Should not the valve tappet guides, and the valves tappets, have left?
The bottom of the tappets does not pass in the hole where the guide rests.
Enlight me, please.
BR
VP
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My good fellows
One more afternoon in the shop, and one pump is cleaned.
BR
VP
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Looking good so far. :)
The camshaft must be removed before the lower half of the lifter can be removed.
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Hi Willw
Thanks for reply. tell me if they have to be unscrewed.
And for the comunity please give opinion of my drowing about CAV fuel pump. I dig a lot, but not find good info for reassemble.
This is a 12/2, so I toke more attention tearing apart the second one. and making my notes.
All the best.
Pedrosa
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Maybe a picture... Also
ATENTION! ATENTION!
My apologies to everyone. Today I assembled the fuel pump and I realised the alignment Control sleeve notch must match 8th groove of control rod (just in the midlle. More simple count 7 teeth for each side).
Here is the updated picture.
All the best.
VP
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[urlhttps://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Lister-CS-and-L-Tappet-Set.html][/url]
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Good evening everyone
Another saturday in the cave. Both CAVs are ready to deploy (final tighting will be done when timing the machine).
To celebrante the endeavor it's fair some 30cc of barley cetanes.
Cheers!
Pedrosa
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Hi Pedrosa, just be sure you got it right here is a picture showing how it should be. Wish I could join you in having a beer but it`s 8 in the morning here in Australia.
Bob
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Hi Ajaffa first
For now this forum is still interesting, although I had better expectations, and of course that touching ideas and experiences with someone on the other side of the world makes it worthwhile to keep hope.
I have already told everyone that I am new to this - stationary engines - because I spent endless hours watching the 12/2 of the olive oil mill in my village - which is no longer working for 20 years - and is now mine.
Of course I need the help of the guys here from the forum, because they have more experience. My job is maritime police, but since childhood the machines have always fascinated me. I graduated in computer science engineering, but cogwheels will always be the evolution of the wheel itself.
Australia for me is a continent since elementary school, and I can not even get a slight idea of the size of this territory. I just know that people work hard, because it will not be easy this territory.
As for the well-deserved beer, it is promised - I will make a package that will stand the trip - and as soon as possible I have the pleasure to share the same taste with you - send PM with address. (I prefere to make a toast with you than brake a leg)
Regarding the image of my CAVs BPF1B870CS6253, they have two dots - one on each side of the rack - so I'd contributed with an edited image noting that the pinion notch should match the midlle groove of the rack.
So far I have not yet been able to get someone to tell me the torque value in the "delivery valve holder". But I know that there will be a soul that hears me.
I wish you a sunny sunday.
All the best
Pedrosa
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Hi Pedrosa, thanks for the offer of a beer. Sadly I`m not allowed to drink them because of my heart medications. So while you are enjoying alcohol, I`m stuck with a cup of tea (not even allowed coffee). I do sometimes have a glass of red wine for medicinal purposes. (maintaining my sanity) :laugh:
Yes Australia is enormous and mostly uninhabited. The majority of people live close to the coastline where the climate is better. Central Australia is pretty much a desert, we even have herds of wild camels!
Don`t know the answer to your question about the correct torque for the delivery valve holder. I`ve always just tightened them up tight with a spanner, don`t over tighten as it will deform the sealing ring. If it starts to leak tighten it a bit more. The critical issue in this simple system is the pop pressure which is set on the fuel injectors. You will need a test rig to set them up correctly. I have heard of people counting the number of turns during dis assembly. Replicating this would set the pop pressure pretty close on reassembly assuming that you don`t have to replace any parts.
Always sunny here, we are in the middle of a record beating drought. What we need is spring rain but then I`ll have to start cutting the bloody grass again (10 acres).
You are welcome to email me at ajaffa1@yahoo.co.uk
Bob
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Hi Ajaffa first
By now is 1h25, I'm arriving from the cave taking off brass rack sleve of bryce fuel pump of petter paz1, to order new rebild kit (i only need this sleves and rack and rack rubbers, but uk only selles all the stuff - and gold price!).
cheers again for that glass of sanity. I also take 2 pills for blod pressure, but there is nothing like that blood color (!). I know spring season is comming there, so don't bother let it pass thru, and count another year. A beer or a glass of 'good' wine it's not alcohol is realy sanity.
By the way, thanks for your tighten eye meter advise. I have already noticed that the indicated tightness is determined by the injector, that is, if there is no leakage between the pump and the injector (and this one works fine) the tightness is good.
BR
Pedrosa
PS: Is time to sleep.
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Hi Pedrosa, hope you slept well. Just a warning about fuel injector testing. Please keep your hands well away when doing the testing, the pressures involved will easily inject diesel through your skin into your blood stream. I have heard stories of diesel engineers having limbs amputated after being injected with diesel. Please be careful.
Bob
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Hey Glort, very good advice. Vegetable oil is a lot safer than diesel and just as good.
Health and safety advice from Captain Dangerous should be heeded!
Bob
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Hi Pedrosa, just a thought, you say that the engine you have used to run an olive oil press, when you were a child. I`m wondering if they used some of the pressed oil as fuel, could be the earliest evidence of Lister`s running on straight vegetable oil.
Bob
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Hi Bob
Making engines work with other non-diesel fuel, I think is a recent thing - maybe derived from experiences of lack of diesel in desperation, or the traditional crazy dudes of experiences.
Diesel (and all fuels) here in portugal - in ancient times (and now???) - was a highly state-controlled fuel, and making an engine work with something other than "official fuel" gave a prison sentence.
Check the photo of another engine 12/2 that my neighbor has: it has a registration plate of the motor, to say the effective power, issued by the government.
BR
Pedrosa
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Wow, locking up your citizens for not buying fuel from the state run monopoly is a new low, I thought Portugal was a democracy not a dictatorship. The American members are always complaining about their Environmental Protection Agency, no match for your government regulations.
Thankfully here in Australia fuel is reasonably cheap. The government would love to raise more revenue by increasing fuel duty but they know there would be a public revolt. The nearest shops to where I live is 100km round trip. The nearest city (Brisbane) is five hours away, the people just couldn`t afford it and the economy would collapse.
Bob
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Hi bob
Portugal stills a democracy, and all democracies are not cheap!
I mean in that time - and yes, it was dictatorship time - from 30's till 74.
And do not be wrong, fuels and gunpowder always be a monopoly of state.
Nowadays government does't care if you play with an engine running on WVO, or beer, since it is just for your one fun.
As far as I can see the ideal mean of transportation that suits you, I think is a plane or a shooper.
Have a safe journey
BR
Pedrosa
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Hi Pedrosa, if I had the money for a plane or helicopter I wouldn`t be messing about with rebuilding old engines to reduce my power bill. :laugh:
Bob
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I can't remember when, but around 5 years back the EEC came up with the idea that every private citizen could use 2000 liters of WVO, WMO, biodiesel, or SVO without notifying the relevant authority, only one country refused to mandate it..........
France!
On the up side, provided your vehicle is up together and you haven't done something like rolling through a 'stop' sign or failing to leave cyclists 3 meters at the traffic lights, where the gendarmes an slap you with an on the spot €120 fine they'd rather carry on drinking coffee and sorting out the overtime sheets.
Cheers
Stef
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Hi everyone
DieselSpanner, please tell us what is bodering you most: that SOB gendarmes or the 120€ fine? As we say, money is expensive and manytimes isn't available!
Of course rooling your car with roses or wathever other smelly flavor sorting by exhaust pipe, and escaping to the special fuel taxation, is the same that you can run but you can't hide.
Don't forget that a police officer is a job, and like all jobs there is good professionals and otheres not so.
I know you don't really mean it (I said before my job), but please tell us if you have the Bryce model NSDLA052D0359 injector manual.
That will be awesome.
Many thanks to you guys, for not letting me here talk to myself.
Cheers
Pedrosa
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Hi Sirpedrosa
Neither bothers me, after almost 14 years in the military I'm more than happy with the phrase 'Don't do the crime if you can't do the time'
And I didn't refer to the gendarmes as 'SOB's, either.
Most of the things that police forces (in the western world, anyway) do are more than necessary, however France wide, the traffic section, and those on motorcycles particularly, are seen as an extra fund raising arm for the system.
On an engineering note, I don't have the manual for the Bryce pump, but bear in mind that the Listers we know and love were made for reliable service in remote locations. The knock on from this is that they can be repaired / rebuilt with the minimum of tools and information. Provided you don't hit anything too hard with a hammer or use too long an extension on your spanners you'll be ok.
Should you make a mess of something, you'll not do it twice, it's what Ed Dee calls 'Paying your school fees'
Cheers
Stef
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Cheer up Stef
We are in the same boat.
And yes those guys on motorcyles are ordered to raise fund for system, not only in france...
BR
Pedrosa
PS: I really need that manual, and others to have the same view from the point of view of the manufacturer.
PS2: Todays the only remote location is just our mind, a far as we refuse to learn... or relearn again anything.
BR
Pedrosa
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Hi Guys, very interesting discussion about traffic cops being used to raise revenue. I have a mate who is an Australian traffic cop and tells me that they have a daily quota of fines they are expected to issue. once they have met that quota they get to go and eat doughnuts and drink coffee. Always best to get stopped by a cop at the end of his shift, he`s already met his quota and can`t be bothered with the paperwork!
Bob
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Hi Pedrosa, there is some injector and pup information available here: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/injection/fuel1.htm
Bob
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Hi Pedrosa, there is some injector and pup information available here: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/injection/fuel1.htm
Bob
Bob
It's all ready scavanged.
BR
Pedrosa
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Hi Pedrosa just a couple of images that may assist you with your injector repairs. Hope yours look better than mine, which after dis assembly has been soaking in a sealed jar, filled with diesel, for the last twelve months.
Bob
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Hi everyone
Today I toke some time do separate the injector needle from nozzle. It was a bit stuked. Well soaked with that WD41 (acet+atf) and an hot air gun (150º) and some precision muscle, it came out.
Next: clean everything thoroughly, and reassemble.
Have a nice time guys.
Pedrosa
PS: Bob, this one is the Bryce form Petter, the others from Lister still in place. Next days i'll bring them to clean too.
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Hi Pedrosa, do them one at a time and reassemble before doing the second one. While parts are theoretically interchangeable worn parts are not. Jeweller`s rough can be used sparingly to lap worn surfaces back to a sealing joint, provided you flush everything after. If you find corrosion this can be removed safely by using the burned end of a wooden kebab stick, it is mildly abrasive but won`t wear steel. Light it, blow it out and rub. repeat until clean. Once again flush everything before reassembly.
Bob
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Hi Bob
thank you for your always appreciated advice.
For each piece I have a box or tin for, as there are no exchanges of pieces.
By the send picture of that "burned end of a wooden kebab stick".
I made some research and I find that the rust can be removed with oxalic acid "https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxalic_acid".
What is your opinion?
cheers
Pedrosa
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Hi Pedrosa, I`ve not tried oxalic acid. If you are going to use it, try it first on something unimportant like an old rusty nut and bolt. Let us know how well it works. Keep it away from copper or brass components, some rust removers/cleaners will eat through copper very quickly. Caustic soda is one such cleaner.
Bob
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Greetings Everyone
Another sunday "promenade" to the shed visiting the 12/2, taking off injectors (wonderfull shape), join them to other stuff in the basket and bring all to the "cave" to start the derust "chemical and/or electrical" to see the best results.
Fingers crossed!
Good week to all.
BR
Pedrosa
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Greetings Everyone
I need help, please. My body of 2 BKB injectors which has the very tight spring nut (4) and has no hexagonal shape to unscrew it, but only two notches for wrench, which can not unscrew them without damaging.
BR
Pedrosa
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Hi Pedrosa, I`m not sure there is an approved method for doing this. You could try soaking it in penetrating oil and leave it for a week, you could try applying gentle heat with a small blowlamp. I don`t believe heat should ever be used on an injector pump but when all else fails that may be the only solution. If heat wrecks it you have to buy a replacement.
One other idea, that I have used in the past, is shock. Put the injector pump in a vice, put the best fitting spanner you have on the spring nut, lean on the spanner as hard as you dare while taping the outside of the injector body with a hammer.
Good luck,
Bob
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Hi Bob
Nice to hear from you.
That nut is soft steel. it will ruins in a glance. I all ready soak it a lot, put it in the oven 1H @ 200ºC, soak it again, but it stills stuck.
I only use blowlamp in exausts or something rough. hammers and injectors are not friends at all.
I'll try to get an hex nut to screw in the spring nut, with a counter nut. By now is the only idea that occurs to me to not damage the spring nut.
By the way, the oxalic acid is good to derust. I tried on a few masonry spoons, they get black color but no rust. need to stay some time (3/4 days...). the metal was not attacked. next experience ... electrolysis
Cheers
Pedrosa
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Hi Pedrosa, sorry you are having such a hard time with this stuck nut.
The rack in my injector pump was badly worn and the element was f*cked. Today I ordered a second hand CAV pump to replace it along with a new element. I will photograph the old spring nut I have and post the photo in the morning. If it is compatable with your pump I will happily post it to you.
You can then be brutal with the one you have, a pipe wrench and a hammer will move just about any nut on earth, it will not be pretty, but it will be out.
Bob
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Greetings Everyone
The 2 Lister's CAV IP's are primed, and the Petter's Bryce too. All other parts rusted "are bathing" in the oxalic acid. And 2 bits os truck parabolic spring are ready to go to the cuting machine to make the gibkey puller.
Fingers crossed!
BR
Pedrosa
PS: Today I collect some of my 2 rows of sweet potatoes. The first one is amazing, take a look!
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Updating the patato
1,333kg
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Very nice sweet potatoes and injector pumps. Where I live sweet potatoes grow very well but can take over the yard if you are not careful. I like them dry fried in the oven like french fries.
Bob
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Hi Bob
I like them in the basement before someone takes them before me, like the peppers did (a two-legged rat took them before me).
Today I piked up thoes left, I think the two rows should give 70kg.
I like them even raw, just without peel.
to prevent they do not spread just change the foliage from one side of the row to the other once a month (i think).
Do you believe that until now I still have not gotten the help asked for Petter?
Cheers.
Pedrosa
Ps: the big ones where on the right row
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Hi all
Just an update of patatos harvest (cleaned and sorted), while 12/2 parts are in bath.
BR
Pedrosa
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Hello glort
If in life it was all about money, half the world did not exist.
Perhaps the word comrade, solidarity, philanthropy, and so many others that helped the human being to leave the middle age. where there were only two types of people: the master and the slave.
If this forum is not for the network of knowledge, then what will it serve? to do business???
So who publishes in this forum is not bound to achieve its objective? which is the global knowledge network.
I believe that this forum has nothing to do with complaints or with the courts, because for this I could spend 5000 characters with prose every time I pronounce on a topic.
I just ask simple things, for simple problems and with simple answers: can anyone help with a simple manual?
Whoever has the manual and wants to share it very well.
I think this will be the spirit of this forum ...
Cheers
Pedrosa
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Hi Glort
I think it's enough of a blow, I realize, you can put off the boot.
BR
Pedrosa
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Hi Bob
As I said, today I bought the nut and the counter nut, and incredibly the measure is metric 22 * 1,5 - who would say!
I had the nuts turned in order to save maximum thread.
It worked flawlessly. Now it's cleaning everything, closing and tuning it in the correct pressure.
One more thing: oxalic acid leaves a protective antirust layer, it should (i think) only be slightly brushed and cleaned before painting.
we will see...
Cheers
Pedrosa
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Hi Pedrosa,Looks very nice, quality workmanship. I recommend that you assemble it without the injector nozzle, then flush it through with diesel or new vegetable oil before fitting the nozzle. It only takes a couple of pieces of crud to block the nozzle and it can be impossible to clean out after.
Haven`t touched my restoration for a few days, a mixture of cost, depression and ill health. Hoping to get back to it next week.
Keep up the good work.
Bob.
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Hi everyone,
Bob cheers you up, I wish you the best. Health is very important, but we have to be more stubborn than disease.
Of course if we are tired we can lay the body down for him to rest, but our head never rests, and it affects the body.
But even if you do little in restoration, this can ease the rest because it keeps you busy.
yesterday was harvest day, few grapes, the climate this year was severe.
Let's see inside the barrel...
Today I left the injectors in a specialized company, it will cost me 1 hour of business labor.
All the beste for all
pedrosa
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Thanks Pedrosa, the reason I bought my engine was to keep me busy, while recovering from a very serious injury in a motor vehicle accident. I have probably recovered as good as I`m going to get. Makes me very angry and depressed that this is going to be as good as it gets from here on. This forum and the people on it keep me sane. I`ve ordered another heap of spares and will try to get back to the rebuild next week.
Good luck with your rebuild and the harvest.
Bob
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Hi Bob
Today was a national holiday, but the restoration continues. I did not do much, but the pile of pieces is already pretty.
The injectors are tuning and the fuel tank is in the oxalic.
Only the cart is missing to remove the iron from the shack. Plans are already made.
BR
Pedrosa
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Hi Pedrosa, all looking good. Be careful moving the old iron, it`s very heavy. Use the best mechanical handling tools you have and stay out of harms way. I have seen serious injuries from slowly moving heavy steel objects.
Good luck, let us know how you go.
Bob
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hello bob
So, how are these bones?
a lot of work and little restoration. I got my calibrated injectors today (and I got a compliment from the injector technician about the cleaning).
the plans for the fuel filter are in progress as you can see in the photos, the cart is already on the white board as well.
Tomorrow is the day to go get the wood for the cart, cut, drill, screw and put wheels.
Let's see how it goes.
greetings
Pedrosa
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Some more pictures...
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Hi Pedrosa, looks like you are making good progress. I am a little concerned about your modification to the fuel filter, I`m not convinced the pressure holding the filter against the o`ring will be sufficient and could allow unfiltered diesel to bypass the filter.
Congratulations on the injectors and injector pumps. I striped my pump months ago and found the rack to be badly damaged. I recently got my hands on another old CAV injector pump with the intention of using the best parts from each to make one good unit. I have a new element for it so we`ll see how it goes. I`ll post some pics as soon as possible.
Good luck,
Bob
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I am a little concerned about your modification to the fuel filter, I`m not convinced the pressure holding the filter against the o`ring will be sufficient and could allow unfiltered diesel to bypass the filter.
Loock at plan above. I will make a threaded nut, where it inserts a bored tube (1/4 ~ 3/8), and carries another nut in the bottom, with orings on both sides. All brass metal.
The photo is to show that I can always insert the original filter.
The filter is an Rx9, quite common to many cars, and fits perfectly on the spot.
Cheers.
Pedrosa
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Hi Everyone
Just to update. Wood and wheels are ready to roll...
Wood is wet, rain came yesterday.
A few bolts and nuts and new kart will be done.
Cheers
Pedrosa
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How wet is the wood? It might be worth painting the end grain with polyurethane varnish to stop it from splitting as it dries out.
Like your design for the diesel filter, sorry I only viewed the picture not the drawing.
Bob
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Hi Bob
Just some overnight drops, nothing that worth any painting because it will be temporary.
Now my concern is to figure out the way to lift the block.
My idea is I have to mount a scaffold with good support to raise the engine, put the cart underneath and make a rail to get out.
Let's see how it goes.
cheers.
pedrosa
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Hi Everyone
Just to update. Kart is squared!
Cheers
Pedrosa
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will that wood and castors support the engine?
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Hi JD
I believe that it is. The wood is 14x7cm, the castors will be fixed with threaded rod M10, the fastening of the crosspieces is with threaded rod M12. and the motor is secured with M14 threaded rod.
The casters are from an 1000L trash container (~200kg/unit).
We will see!
BR
Pedrosa
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Hi Everyone
Updating the Kart task. there is no need for that brute force planned. 10mm rods to hold the frame straight is sufficient.
And only 12mm for the engine. "Let's give it some room"
Bob, thanks for the warnig of the wet wood, when I tightened the screws I saw that the fibers were very soft. loosen and painted the tops with an enamel that lay there on the shelf - only for the wood not to breathe from the top.
Now let it dry more ...
Cheers
Pedrosa
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While the "Leslie" goes by nothing like shining the taps (the supply tank, the fuel tank and fuel return nipple)
BR
PEdrosa
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Hi Pedrosa, I heard on the news today that Portugal is facing a very rare and dangerous Atlantic storm. Hoping all is well with you and your family.
Stay safe,
Bob
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Hi Bob
Just a few showers to settle the dust, and in some places strong gusts of wind that knocked down some trees. So far there is no news of major occurrences.
Civil protection had warned enough. Everything is normal already.
How's the restoration going around?
I have to have the gibkey puller cut, to go forward ... and "take the little boy out of the shack"
I have some gas soldering to do on PETTER ... I had to buy the second hand apparatus for DIY.
Self-taught in gas welding... Let's move forward!
Cheers
Pedrosa
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Very glad to hear things are OK. Good luck with doing the hot work, soldering/brazing are not the same as welding. The first two involve the addition of a lower melting point metal to the original metal, this usually involves the use of a flux to prevent oxidization. Welding involves melting two similar metals so they fuse together as one.
Best of luck with moving your engine from it`s shed. Hoping your kart works well, please use ropes and pulleys and stay out of the way. 700 Kg of cast iron can make a mess of a man, even at very slow speed.
My build is slow but steady, I`ve finished the injector and pump and I will post some pics tomorrow.
Bob
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I'm looking forward to seeing it up and running!
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Hi folks
Yesterday was the day to make the repairs left by the storm "Leslie" in the village house; some broken tiles, and quite a few broken pines.
The dismantling of the 12/2 took another step (before the shack fell on it with the winter).
I already have restoration for a few more weeks ...
Cheers
Pedrosa
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Well done Pedrosa, you are doing a great job in very difficult circumstances. Sorry to hear the shed collapsed, please put some polythene over the engine to keep out any water. Glad to hear you got through the weather event with only a couple of loose roof tiles and a few trees down.
Bob
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Hi bob
The shed is not yet collapsed, it rains inside but not on the engine - and yes, it is (and was) properly protectid. But another "leslie" and i think it dosn't hang.
By the way, pistons have a notch in bottom and as far as i remember it is oriented to exaust valve. Am i correct?
Br
Pedrosa
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Hi Pedrosa, when looking into the crankcase door there are two visible features: the first is that there are numbers punched into the conrod and main bearing housing these should be facing you at bottom dead center.
The second feature is that the piston has a notch in it which should be on the right as you look in the crankcase door.
Interestingly, if you purchase a new piston there is no notch in it, nor is there any other way of determining the correct orientation. I have measured them and I believe them to be symmetrical so you can fit them either way.
Bob
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Hi Bob
When I took out the pistons, the gudgeon pin slided better in the direction of the notch. That is on the cyl 1 to the right, and on the cyl 2 to the left (seen from the governor side).
It means - following your clarification - that the notch will be on the side of the exhaust valve, because the 12/2 exaust manifolds are simetric. do you agree with my point if view?
BR
Pedrosa
Ps: open crankcase will be donne when is seats on kart.
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Interestingly, if you purchase a new piston there is no notch in it, nor is there any other way of determining the correct orientation. I have measured them and I believe them to be symmetrical so you can fit them either way.
Bob
I also measured them and came to the same conclusion as you.
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Hi 38ac
Do you agree with my conclusion?
BR
VP
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Hi Guys
Good news and other not so. right Cyl very good shape, left cyl has 2 pits 10cm below top. Right piston good condition, left more pitted on top.
By the way, the two pistons are aligned both with notch to left side (view from governor). Both has the light shade of inlet valve.
Cheers
VP
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Kart is on the wheels...
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Hi Everyone
Cleaning blocks and heads began. Lots of decades os dirt.
Bob and 38AC: take a look at the shape of pistons and in particular for that worned valve, and tell of your justice. Your advice will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Pedrosa
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Don't want to piss on your parade, but i doubt that that cart would last 5 minutes with my Sr2 standing on it. Hope you prove me wrong though.
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Hi Dax021
So am I, and it's a Lister 12/2 not a Sr2. I think 12/2 it's twice the weight.
"What would become of man if there were no faith?"
BR
Pedrosa
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The valves look ok they need cleaned and reground I wouldn't like to be near the 12/2 when it starts balanced on that cart, madness IMO
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Hi JD
The cart, as has been said, is temporary to walk from side to side. Of course when it starts to work it has to have better stability and the platters have to be bigger.
Calm down that "Rome and Pavia were not made on the same day."
BR
VP
PS: That worn-out valve is worrying me ... a lot.
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Hi Pedrosa, opinion and advice:
Pistons: measure the diameter of the pistons, top and bottom, how much play is there in the gudgeon pins, what is the size of the piston ring slots? If the pistons are significantly worn they will need replacing. If there is only minor wear then a set of new piston rings should be adequate. If you are concerned about the pitting in the top of the pistons a very thin skim on a lathe would probably be OK provided you allow for this when setting the bump clearance.
Valves: put the valves back in the head, how much play is there in the valve guides? Now put a straight edge across the face of the cylinder head and measure how deep into the head the face of the valves are. The correct depth is between 0.055 inch (min) & 0.100 inch (max)
If there is significant wear in the valve stems and guides they will need replacing. If the face of the valves is more than 0.100 inch below the surface then the head will need to have new seats fitted.
Cylinder: if there is pitting or significant wear then you will need to have a sleeve fitted and honed. Fitting new piston rings in worn bores is a bad idea as there is often a lip worn in the cylinder at the top. Your new top ring will hit this and very quickly fail. Some replacement ring sets come with a stepped top ring to allow for this but I doubt they are available for an original CS.
I am waiting for our local machinist to return from holiday, he is going to sleeve my cylinder and fit new seats to the head.
Good luck with the kart, I have faith in Pedrosa not in God, experience has taught me that prayer has no impact on the performance of anything mechanical!
Bob
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Have seen that wear and damage at the top of the piston and above the top ring on many occasions and that would not cause me to replace them. The important things are skirt condition and wear, pin hole wear, top ring land wear (common) and cracks(uncommon) and none of that can the determined from pictures.
Pictures can deceive but in the last picture the top valve face certainly looks to be worn beyond grinding and need to be replaced. The bottom one might clean up and still have a good margin left on it. Proper attention to guide wear is important as is the valve depth once a seat is established. The entire procedure is kinda lengthy to type up step by step but suffice it to say that when I have seen valves in that condition in my shop they are accompanied by worn stems and guides and the seats are in need of serious attention.
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Hi folks
I'll add some more pictures to update info.
38ac:
skirt condition and wear seems to be ok (but I will still see with "the magnifying glass");
pin hole wear I think its ok because I needed to hit to make it slide;
top ring land wear (common) - I'll measure the clearance;
and crancks still in shed...
Possibly (most certainly) I have to put a new seat in the valve, and a new valve;
All guides seems to be in good shape... but
Cheers.
Pedrosa
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Greetings
I made the measurements of the valves in the heads with the pachymeter, and I obtained:
Valve depth: Lin - 2.8mm (bad), Lex - 1.8mm; Rin 1.8mm, Rex 2.35mm;
Stems: Lin - 10.95mm, Lex - 10.95mm; Rin 10,95mm, Rex - 10,95mm;
Guides: Lin - 11.15mm, Lex - 11.15mm; Rin 11,15mm, Rex - 11.20mm.
Please state what is relevant to these measures.
Note that the measurements were made without springs, however I was careful to make the seating of the valves with whiteboard pen.
Cheers.
VP
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I work in the world of inches, feet, and miles didnt do the conversions because I am lazy. I shoot for .002" clearance on the intake stems and .004" on the exhaust when renewing ahead. Lister spec allows for .010" wear which I think is quite excessive.
A link link to specs on this site http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=7359.30 (http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=7359.30)
It helps to know that in the English engineering world you will find that the great bulk of the time that the I.D. dimension will be to size and the clearance will be machined into the O.D. part. Example A CS engine has a 2" crankshaft at the mains. The I.D. of a new shell will measure very close to 2.000" while the new crankshaft spec is also 2.000" with a machining limit of -.002" - .0025"
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Hi 38ac
I understand that laziness. You don' got that need as I am.
Now I have to think about the imperial measures (and for a simple calculation just think that 0.100" = 2.54mm, and so on).
We still use BSP for tubing and tapering. BSW and BSF only in special cases, as in this case.
I do not need to have my12/2 working like a Swiss watch, but at least work well. The lathe service is quite expensive, but not only, allied to this is needed new valves and guides, and may still need new rings ... or even reboring (this bill will be very heavy ...). Not to mention parts have to be ordered from UK, or somewhere else.
"Money is expensive and often lacking!"
Cheers.
VP
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Hi VP
Having worked in both imperial and metric for years I can switch between the two with little trouble, the only thing my head won't go around is fuel consumption for my car, it has to be in miles per gallon. Liters per 100 kilometers I can't envisage.
Down at engineering levels 40 thou (0.04") is a millimeter and easy to remember.
OK, it's 0.0393700787402 if you want to be picky!
Cheers
Stef
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HI DS
Take a look: https://www.calculateme.com/gas-mileage/us-mpg-to-liters-per-100-km
BR
VP
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Hi Pedrosa
It's not that I can't find the answer on the web, but that it holds no 'real world' relevance in my head!
When I moved to France I found it weird that they use the 24 hour clock in normal conversation, ( speak and can count enough in French to understand it!) Having done the best part of 14 years in the military and Lord knows how long at sea I'm quite happy with the format, but I still don't like using it in general conversation, no idea why.
Cheers
Stef
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HI DS
Thats because you don't realy need it, and thats great. And not needing makes us much happier, don't you agree?
BR
VP
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Hi VP
Having worked in both imperial and metric for years I can switch between the two with little trouble, the only thing my head won't go around is fuel consumption for my car, it has to be in miles per gallon. Liters per 100 kilometers I can't envisage.
Down at engineering levels 40 thou (0.04") is a millimeter and easy to remember.
OK, it's 0.0393700787402 if you want to be picky!
Cheers
Stef
It's interesting talking to a "modern" mechanic he uses ½" drive ratchet on a 13mm socket but he would have no idea what a ½" spanner fits or looks like. The only people in Ireland using imperial spanners are guys repairing lawnmowers or restoring vintage cars and not all of them use imperial either. I have imperial sockets and spanners and when using them you remember how few tools older machines needed. My car, a Seat, uses 16 mm spanners on M12 bolts and 18 mm spanners on M14. I wonder how much metal they save making a nut or bolt head that little bit smaller. My torque wrench is in ft lbs I tried to explain to a friend what ft lb means but I started losing the will to live.
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Hey Johndoh, I worked as a machinist during the transition from imperial to metric in the UK. What a cluster f*ck. The whole purpose of the exercise was to move everything to a decimal based measurement system that was easy for computers to understand and control. Thousands of very skilled men lost their jobs to machines because of this, apprenticeships went out the window and the government were able to shut down all the training facilities. Give me feet and inches anytime, I can do the math in my head. Good on the USA for sticking with what was a much better system.
Here in Australia I can still buy imperial thread nuts and bolts, problem is they are made in China out of metric hexagonal bar! So a 5/16 bolt might have a 12mm head, f*cking madness!
Bob
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Hi Bob
It's to have an imperial bolt but with a metric head. The Chinese make whatever product you want - as long as it's sold ...
I printed this chart (https://www.vaughns-1-pagers.com/science/wrench-conversion.htm), and pined it in my white board. It works great.
Cheers
VP
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An imperial headed bolt with a metric thread and vice versa is plain stupid. People are stupid enough without adding to their store of things they dont understand. My local hardware shop still sells loose nuts and bolts. They have a metal ruler on the counter with holes in it for various sizes of bolts. Buy a few bolts and they stick one into a hole until it fits, then they measure it. I can just pick out the bolts I want without thinking about it. Lucky for these morons they don't sell BSF or whitworth or UNF etc. Pipe thread is still imperial sized here it's a good idea to avoid any salesman or salesperson under 60 if you need pipe fittings
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I'm rarely the one to say 'You're wrong' but this time I must!
Ignorance is lack of knowledge, it will eventually cause wisdom - See several of Terry Pratchett' books.
The days of everything being made to a particular specification went along with the British motor cycle industry, as long as the thread of the replacement bolt conforms to whatever relic one is trying to maintain / rebuild what matters the distance 'across the flats' of the hexagonal bits? If there's nothing else to hand then I'll re drill and re tap to suit with whatever I've got to hand. Keeping it all running is paramount, IMHO.
If you want concourse, then there are endless motorcycle and car events every summer, for the ultimate 'gong hunter' you can even take your classic car or bike to the - long forgotten - site of the original works and fill the tyres with 'Factory Fitted Air'
And the 'Stupid' are going to cock it up anyway........
Cheers
Stef
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Hey Stef, my frustration with this is that I used to be able to determine if a thread was metric or imperial by the size of the nut/bolt head. I now have to spend twice as long mucking about with micrometers and thread gauges.
Please don`t get me onto pipe fittings, especially hydraulic and pneumatic fittings. AAARRGG :laugh:
Intelligence is the ability to learn from ones own mistakes, wisdom is the ability to learn from the mistakes of others.
Bob
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Hi Bob
We must have enough white hair to not cut wrists. Leave the fustrations and rejoice in being able to vent with half a dozen boys from the rest of the world.
As the other said the mistakes are the bill that wasn't paid at school. But now what counts is that we can make a mistake and start all over again.
It only costs money? less cigarettes to burn or diamonds that ex-wifes never deserved.
And the children are happy because they realize that we still do not have Alzheimer's (it's better than Parkinson, because with Parkinson you turn your glass of good wine to the ground, and with Alzheimer's you drink and forget to pay).
Intelligence or wisdom are synonymous that we refuse to stop learning ...
Cheers to ALL
VP
ps: minor corrections...
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Hi Folks
Another day scraping rust and scale, o'rings are clean, wrist pins are fitted and fine tuned. The pile is growing...
Cheers
VP
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Updating...
Does anyone know how to remove the main plug from VOC when the head has already been removed from the cylinder, as red pointed in the pic.
BR
VP
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Mine was so seized in place I drilled a M12 hole through it, made a puller, dragged it out and just bought a new part
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I see the prices in that photo are in pounds shillings and pence I somehow doubt the modern moronic shop assistant could cope with that currency and the alternative names for some things like a tanner, a bob, a guinea or half a crown. Decimal currency is definitely easier to count but back in the day 12 pence = one shilling was easy. If you had a few pennies in your pocket you felt good now in Ireland a €50.00 bill is regarded as pocket change.
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Mine was so seized in place I drilled a M12 hole through it, made a puller, dragged it out and just bought a new part
Hi Mikenash
I can not afford that luxury, I have to save as many pieces as I can. "Money is veeery exxxpensive!"
Even though I have to clean them when the engine is already fully assembled and working, and do as they say in the manual.
But I'm sure someone knows a good way to extrat it.
BR
VP
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Sirpedrosa:
We tried all kinds of things to remove the plug. first the recommended methods. No Joy. Then few creative but non destructive ways........still no joy. Heat did not work, even threading and using a puller did not work. We ended up destroying it then buying a replacement. Maybe just leave it alone if your does not come out easily and you do not want to purchase a new one.
Cheers,
Hugh
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Hi Everyone
One Sunday afternoon continuing the 12/2 restoration:
Withdraw the remaining studes - it took some imagination! but not even the stubborn ones were hypothesized.
Remove some more rust and limestone in water jackets... with special tools!
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Soften the pistons ...
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Measuring clearances:
Left Piston: Skirt - 0.10mm (0.0039 ") Head 0.20mm (0.0078").
Right Piston: Skirt - 0.10mm (0.0039 ") Head 0.25mm (0.0098").
I think these measurements are within the normal parameters...
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One last question - I ask the opinion of the forum - is this "callus" of the pistons in the opposite side of the valves is normal? see figure.
Good weak
VP
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Hi Pedrosa, I have two questions. The first is: what position are they stuck in, where the COV handles screwed in as for starting or out as for running? The reason I ask this is that it is a lot easier to free up a stuck plug by driving it in rather than trying to pull it out.
My second question is why do you want to pull them out? I think that the first run of your engine will probably free them, a mixture of heat and the shock wave from fuel detonating.
In my case the entire COV assembly has had to be replaced as the threads were damaged. I also made up a puller to remove the old plug, destroying it in the process.
DEV Precision, in India make new COV assemblies they would probably just sell you the plugs if you asked nicely. Alternatively ask your local machine shop to make you a pair, they are only made of mild steel and could be turned up on a lathe in ten minutes.
Bob
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Hi Pedrosa, wear above the top piston ring is very common, it is generally caused by a build up of carbon and is usually accompanied by wear in the top of the cylinders. A lot of people now use water injection to prevent these carbon deposits from building up.
Bob
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Hi Bob
Nice to hear from you.
1) COV's are not stuck, just only the main plug, the other parts are out souking to be cleaned.
2) and was (is) just to clean it thoroughly, as all parts.
Explain more that "water injection to prevent these carbon deposits from building up"
Cheers
VP
PS: things are going well, but i'll order parts only when all disassembly is done. (Postage truly expensive!)
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....
Explain more that "water injection to prevent these carbon deposits from building up"
take your basic spray bottle , and fill it with water or 50/50 water alcohol, and with the engine
running under a load, and thoroughly warmed up, start spraying a spritz of water into the intake pipe
(not just into the air cleaner, where it will ruin the paper element) but past the element, and right down the intake.
I give a squirt every 3rd or 4th power stroke, and amazingly, it just flashes into steam, cleans the cylinder, and blows the crud out. Some folks rig up a dripper, some use a metering pump.
Used to be used in airplanes to control detonation in piston engines, and was found to have a good cleaning effect too. There's a load of posts here about all the different ways and flow rates people use.
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Hi Pedrosa, sorry I haven`t posted much recently. My Wife`s father has had a stroke and was expected to die. I am very pleased to say that he is now recovering well. :)
If you do a search on the forum you will find a lot of information on water injection. Some clever people have fitted venturie pipes in to their inlet manifolds others use gravity fed systems. The important thing with water injection is that it is only used in a hot running engine and that it is turned off before shutting down. You do not want water standing in your cylinders. You can also manually do this by pouring a small amount of water into the inlets, if you put in too much the engine will start to bog down. It works equally well with petrol engines. The water turns to steam and lifts all the crap out of the engine and blows it out of the exhaust.
Glort is a huge exponent of water injection and has a water pump in his diesel car, running on waste vegetable oil, he also sometimes adds ethanol or methanol which gives him a bit of a power boost. He swears that it improves engine performance and longevity.
Bob
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Greattings
Cart is finished, lets see if it manage...
Measuring ring clearence:
Cylinder nº 1 (rgt)
ring nº TDC BDC
1 ---------- 1,55mm (0.0610") ---- 1,30mm (0.0511") ---- width 3,85mm (0.1515") ---- thickness [3,10mm (0.1220") outer lip] > {3,05mm inner lip}
2 ---------- 0,95mm (0.0374") ---- 0,85mm (0.0334") ---- width 3,90mm (0.1535") ---- thickness 3,12~mm (0.1228")
3 ---------- 0,95mm (0.0374") ---- 0,90mm (0.0354")
4 ---------- 0,85mm (0.0334") ---- 0,80mm (0.0314")
oil --------- 1,15mm (0.0452") ---- 1,10mm (0.0433")
Bob and 38ac - opinion requested please!
Cheers
VP
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Hi Everyone
Finally the first project is finished (only the throttle spring was missing), and rocking and rolling.
Bernard 18A - 1968, with the original color of clay brick.
(the water pump could not be saved, I put a polye)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eA4kiglnbFnQm2-qBeP_xpLKRZGzJNBo/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eA4kiglnbFnQm2-qBeP_xpLKRZGzJNBo/view?usp=sharing)
Nice weekend
VP
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Several observations form you last few posts. Measuring piston to cylinder clearance when measured at the bottom of the bore is almost worthless as for discerning the condition. In all but the most worn and abused examples the great bulk of wear occurs at the very top top of the top ring travel in the cylinder and the top ring lands of the piston. Your piston ring end gap figures do indeed provide some good information to go with if I can assume when you were measuring the top ring end gaps at the top of where they travel and NOT at the top of the cylinder? If you measured at the top of the cylinder the information is worthless.
Assuming you measured the ring end gaps at the correct place in the cylinder my ready math, which is diameter = circumference divided by 3 you have about .003 wear in that cylinder. That cylinder is OK to use. Top ring side clearance is also important.New spec is around .001" If you have more than .005 you need pistons IMO. Also all those end gaps are excessive, I assume they are used rings? Once more I apologize as I dont read every post on the threads.
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Thank you 38ac
Yes, the clearances were measured at the location where each ring stays on the TDC.
The rings are the ones that were in service.
It means that - with these clearances - new rings should be installed. Right?
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If there are no other problems with the pistons you can reuse them. New rings are in order.
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Hi Pedrosa, be careful when ordering new piston rings. Hard chrome plated cylinder bores require soft piston rings. Some Listeroid engines have cast iron cylinder bores and require hard piston rings, others have steel sleeves and require intermediate rings. Please make it clear to your supplier that you have hard chrome cylinders.
Bob
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Hi Everyone
Got the fuel filter adaptar done! Nice piece.
Cheers
VP
PS: Lathe bill takes away a few good bottles of red and green...
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Hi Pedrosa, very nice work, love to see some polished brass rather than the normal cheap cadmium plated steel crap normally used now.
What is the make and number of that fuel filter so I can do the same ?
Sorry to hear the cost of parts and machining services is reducing your alcohol consumption. Stick with it, it will be worth it in the end.
Bob
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Hi Bob
Popular name for this filter is kx9 (Mhale) - and is a general porpose fuel filter for a huge number os automotive brands.
I showed it in Reply #67 - In AU you can buy a C4891 FRAM (view equivalent chart https://www.pecasauto24.pt/mann-filter-7280260.html)
About the brass, I had to buy the material for turning. The 3/8 pipe had to buy 1.5m, yes 1.5m, and it was just a spare, otherwise I had to buy 6m (it's all crazy, I was told it's normal to do everything now in stainless steel). Brass is brass... period.
And then I want to keep everything in the imperial standard. It's more expensive... less a bottle of green.
Bob, it is not a consumption of alcohol, it is a way of saying that a bottle ends quickly, but the piece we see will last longer. I only drink at mealtime, or a beer if it is warmer.
But it looks nice!
Cheers
VP
PS: Have you see the petter's air filter nut? nice design?
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Hi Pedrosa, yes I saw the new air filter retaining nut, very nice to see someone still knows how to use a knurling tool in a lathe.
Bob
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Hi Bob
While the restoration does not advance, another brass tap saves from going to the container for china. And it's already polished and tuned.
BR
VP
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I have been performing that same fuel filter conversion for several years, I guess fine minds think alike ;)?
Much easier to do here in the states as we can purchase a 3/8" to 1/4" NPT brass bushing and a 1/4" NPT brass nipple of the correct length at the hardware store. Only place I differ is I place a short spring under the element that serves to hold it up against the head. Somewhere on these pages is a write up if anyone has interest in it. Nice work.
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Hi Butch
I showed your idea in my Reply # 68, and I think it works fine. Bob had doubts about the seal...
Keep in touch.
Cheers
VP
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Ah, I see now. Your element differs slightly from the one I use that has rubber seals that fit tightly on 1/4 pipe. I can find the element number if there is interest in posting it.
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Hello butch
I looked for the filter element that fit inside the wick container, so everything was all inside the body.
And yes it seems to me well that you divulge the reference of the filter element, for each one to adopt the system that they find better.
Cheers
VP
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Hello everyone
Winter is just another month, and I'll see in spring the 12/2 to continue disassembly.
Meanwhile Braim's oil can arrived from the UK on ebay, for the Lister. It's already shining, clean and working.
Let's get going.
BR
VP
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Hello everyone
The good weather is coming, the week was working in the village, pruning the trees, especially the olive trees, planting some more with parents and relatives, and...
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Finally the 12/2 left the shack. Now I have to disassemble the block to see the whole picture, and check if the account will be reasonable.
Let's see ... and the hydraulic press is almost finished.
Good weekend for all
VP
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Hi Everyone
My 12/2 came with a 2 1/4" handle, but does not fit into it, because is too large, so I just restored it to sell.
It's a genuine Lister Handle. Take a look! new ratchet and new grip of exotic wood, and fresh emanel.
Cheers
VP
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Hi Everyone
Does anyone knows what models of Lister have 2 1/4" crankshaft?
Br
VP
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Hi Everyone
Today was time to disassemble con rods, to come to the shop to clean and verify clearances. Valve tappets too, only exhaust, because inlet tappets are sized, and need hammer, some heat and lub.
Cheers
VP
Ps: Crank journal only needs to be soften, it has just signs of being stopped for long time.
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Hi Everyone
Finally tappets are all off, cleaned, fine sanded, and bathing in oxalic.
Next stage: brut force to get flywhels, main shaft and cam shaft off.
After that I hope the way will be up till head cover.
Cheers
VP
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Hi Everyone
Meanwhile, the Cotiemme engine of the harvester is already mounted and spinning, only need to repair (plus buy) a new centrifugal clutch.
here is final work...
Have a sunny day.
VP
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Hi Pedrosa, I am curious about the 2 1/4" crankshaft, early Lister CS engines had a smaller crank shaft diameter to later models but my experience is limited to single cylinder engines where the later models had a 2 inch diameter crank. It would make sense to increase the crankshaft diameter for a twin cylinder engine, I suspect that big end bearing journals will be smaller.
Looking good.
Bob
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Hi Bob
I made some research and I found that the Lister CD and CE has 2 1/4" shaft:
CD: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/ListerData/CDP4data.htm
CE: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/ListerData/CEP4data.htm
Br
VP
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Hi Everyone
Today was a happy day. Booth gib keys came off with tapered wedge (gently, patience, and hammering with care)
Next step: Pull out flywheels and crank, and a good clean all over. After that the way is up...
Be happy
VP
PS: Very interesting, the gibkey steel is quite soft.
PS2: Another DIY, a clay mold to soak penetrating atf+acet in gibkey recess.
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Glad to see they are out, I have never had any luck with a wedge. Yes they are soft so they could be filed and also so they would comform a bit when driven in. A properly fitted key should go 90% of the way in with light tapping and then tighten up with little more movement and stop abruptly. Be sure you keep them separated and install them in the same flywheel they came out of.
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Hi Butch
Nice to hear from you.
Both keys has a figure number. See pic.
Your Ruston M, already runs diesel?
Cheers
VP
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Hi Everyone
Strip down goes on.
But, first in the morning I got to make a 2" spanner for pipe fiting, to unfasten and fasten conical bits, of "another" italian water pump. This one looks really a piece of cutting edge engineering. See pic.
After that take the 12/2 apart. This time Stef's method works. 2 wheels off.
Both camshaft end cover off. And a very interesting thing is the left cover has 5/16 studs and... 5/16 BSF format nut.
...
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some more pics...
Sump is "reading old news".
The 55kg each wheel.
And the basket to amuse next days...
Thats all for now.
Have a nice week.
VP
PS: crankshaft center bearing nut is 1.5/16" socket. Another headache... and too hands inside is too much.
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Wow VP, you have been busy! I hope you have not been ignoring your policing duties. I would hate to read in the newspapers that there has been a sudden rise in the crime rate in Portugal! :laugh:
I can`t help thinking that you are clearly a very fine engineer and those skills are probably underused in the police force. If you are as good a policeman as you are a diesel mechanic god help the criminals.
Keep up the good work.
Bob
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Hi Bob
Don't be worried with the duty. I'm not a patrolman (daily basis!). I lead, as graduated rank, a team of logistics branch in my station, and by work schedule senior duty officer.
Only summertime duty is toughest due to safety and security in beachs.
One day at a time...
Take care of your hand!
Cheers
VP
PS: Don't forget I must travel 170km*2 to meet my 12/2 everytime, because it's seated in the village [and mainly give a good hand to my octogenarians].
-
Hi Everyone
I'd like some help with a question: look at the pic first.
The Lister manual points that the oil thrower ring has that direction, but in my 12/2 it was flipped, and I think was in original position, because it had original green paint.
Opinion are wellcome
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
Some pics of small and big stuff geting cosmetics.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
updating tasks: the basket is full, I think i'll need another one to store parts already painted of the 12/2.
And a courtesy of Jim Perkins to send me 3/16 round bar.
Cheers
VP
-
My Goodness,
I just found a scared cylinder head face. I'll tell her a tale.
-
I have removed and reinstalled more then a few of those sealing rings but its been a while since I have been through a CS and can't remember. I always place a punch mark on them to keep them matched side for side and it also serves to mark the outside,,,thus I have not had to pay strict attention to them,, sorry. That being said they were worki,g as they were, put them back in the same way >:(
-
Many thanks Butch
I think that the drawing of the manual will not be correct, because the proper architecture of the washers can only have the direction in which the grooves are to make of seal with the felt, as well as the gap between the main bearing and the flyhweel.
What do you say? Do you consider this reasoning correct?
Cheers
VP
-
Updating...
basket overflow.
Things are going in good way.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
One more saturday round trip to the Lister.
following Butch's advice, and with proper care, I had to grind the injection pump cam lobe pin (pay attention to the wooden block to support the shaft).
the 2 inch handcrafted spanner with sharp point gave a good help hammering it off.
After that, some polishing in two flywheels, and polley.
I expected to bring the "anaconda" home but the 33 socket didn't work at that narrow sump space (crankshaft centre bearing) . I got to test a ring spanner next time. After that is done...
-
At least the cam shaft pays the trip...
See you next time.
Cheers
VP
-
Glad to see you got the taper pin out. The difficulty there varies a lot with how hard they were knocked in by the assembler.
The paint color looks spot on. I don't suppose we can get it here but what brand and color is it?
-
Hi Butch
Glad to hear from you.
As I said before I couldn't save much green paint, because - as you can see - most of it are off cause the 20+ years rust, and ATF/Acet.
The red primary is original, and i'll give it another coat of it, not necessarly red - most now are gray.
It will be painted mid brunswick green - as you can see in previous pics most parts are already wrapped in newspaper.
And that pin was really stuck, initially I used the thin steel rod and it began to bend, so I picked the big to take advantage of momentum, and it dropped.
The green paint is custom made with BS code. see my reply here: http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8333.msg100163#msg100163
Cheers
VP
-
By the way, don't forget to lunch.
Here's a proposal: salmon in the oven with vegetables and sautéed banana.
And, of course, the chilled rosé...
Cheers
VP
-
That lunch looks great!
I have asked for. mid Brunswick green here in tbe states and all I get is dumb looks
-
I found the rustoleum rattle can dark green high heat paint, was a fair match.
I painted my exhaust pipe wit it to cover up the welding rainbows. Pipe rarely gets over 320F under full load
-
Butch,
Please read this site: https://www.bernardoecenarro.com/en/actualidad/detalle/besa-moves-to-bigger-facilities-in-canada.
As far as I can see my MBGreen came from this producer: https://www.bernardoecenarro.com/en/industrial-paint/paint-manufacturers/bind-decoration/satin-urethane-enamel/297.
I request to made it to 170ºC temperature, same as "paragon paints, uk". But as you can see in the site of my supplier (only in pt lang.) but you can see he can customize in RAL, NCS, PANTONE, BRITISH STANDER...
Is that BStandard you want, and you need.
By the way, I noticed the cam lobe of exaust is taller than the intake. What can you tell about?
That's al for now.
Cheers
VP
PS: take a look at this site also and see the BRITISH STANDARD 381C Colour Chart: https://www.britishstandardcolour.com/
-
The intake and exhaust lobes are different. There was not much issue with lobe wear on the CS. . compare the intakes to each other, same with the exhaust.
-
Hi Everyone
What you see, is what I got!
The 2 cam lobes of injection pump tappets are "really" pitted.
But the IP's tappet has a roller, so they got to hang on...
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
It works. Yahoooooooooooo! The "anaconda" is out of sump.
First the spanner... making 2 from the price of one.
It was last night 1 AM - there was no time to made a proper lever... To improvise is the word of order.
Pipe wrench with a pipe for leverage to make a angle lever.
It came out. 35 kg of steel snake.
Sump is empty. Now a good clean to start reassemble.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
Looking closer to the "anaconda" the journals looks ok, besides some pitting in shaft extent.
But i'm conserned with a sort of metal pattern on the place of flywheels. Please take a look at pics and tell if that is some sort of metal stress.
By the way, cam shaft lobs specs are:
LIP - 48,5 mm
RIP - 49 mm
LIN - 45,75 mm
LEX - 48,5 mm
RIN - 45,95 mm
REX - 48,35 mm
Cheers
VP
PS: Butch and Bob, don't let me down...
-
Just looks like corrosion to me? I assume that area was between the flywheels and seal ring? As to the pump cam pitting I would not be too concerned about it. However if you can source them somewhere for reasonable price replace them.
-
Many thanks Butch
As I said before only a few "nuts" like me - and I can't find nomore arround - start a sort of passion for this old machines. Therefore, most of them are simply dumped to scrap container, for melting - in perfect run condition...
And for the heartbreaking there is no listeroids, only genuine dursley cast iron.
So, I got to save thoses cam lobes anyway.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
Just passing by to showoff "the" decent wrench lever.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
This week parts arrived from UK.
Heads and new valves are in VEICOMER to grind seats, and crankshaft and conrods to verify clearences.
Here is the link, take a look at: https://veicomer.com/en/
Cheers
VP
-
Impressive-looking business
I'm sure it will be good, but I'd be surprised if it was cheap?
-
Hi Everyone
While the heads are not in order to mount again, the flywheels have come down to paint.
Actually at this time already has the primary.
It remains to do the cleaning and painting of the sump.
This weekend I was promised a few railway sleepers to seat the Lister.
I think it will be fine on them.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
I need a parallel key to fit my Lister's poly. Can anyone give some help with link to supplier.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
VP
-
I need a parallel key to fit my Lister's poly?
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
VP
Translation is bad there😀 try that once more please.
-
Hi Butch
Indeed... I do my best. Blame the google translator cause it doesn't get the context. And i'm improving every day!
Nothing better than a image... Here it goes.
Cheers
VP
-
What you are after is commonly called square key stock. Here we can purchase it at any good hardware store or at the China tool store called Harbor Freight. If you don't have access to such places go to Ebay and buy it there.
-
Butch
I'm after a rectangular key 9/16*5/16*3".
I'll search more arround.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
First coat is applied. It's getting pretty.
Cheers
VP
Ps: Nothing like some days off.
-
Hi Everyone
Just passing by to show flywheels and pulley, painted and preserved for the next stage of assembly.
The rims and pulley face have been varnished and are gorgeous.
After a few vacation days...
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
Meanwhile another water pump to restore, this time a British Gryphon, 15 years + (since last maintenance) inside the well.
Have a nice day.
VP
-
Hi Everyone
Sump/block came down to prepare to paint.
112kg of British cast iron! casted on 24JUL57.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
Just passing by to show some improvements:
Do you recognize this GRYPHON? Lets turn to the Lister again...
Passing taps to tune threads.
Block bottom has a coat of alu paint primary.
And it has a very specialized four hands crane with NASA's made design lift bar, and a custom trolley.
Do you remember of my hunting cat, instead of a dog?
Cheers
VP
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That 12/2 will be a show piece when you get it done!
-
Hi Everyone
Butch, the 12/2 is intended to be just a show piece, as I said before, because it is village history preservation.
Gryphon pump is finishied, with it's original color;
And the 12/2 block is on my "Cat's" paint bench.
Cheers
VP
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Hi Everyone
a few more hands of paint brush.
Nothing like a pic.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
And specially Butch, whom I request his opinion about my idea to put back the non governor cam pin.
As seen in pic I drilled the center pin, that I intend to thread and put a screw, after tapping the pin.
Feel free to make your point of view.
Cheers
VP
Ps: Anyone can tell the correct cam end float. I have 0,3mm. Is that ok?
-
Hi Everyone
12/2 is getting his decoration too... And beginning to fit bits to see if everything is going ok.
Cheers
VP
-
The end float is fine as is your modification to the pin
-
Hi Everyone
Old cart dismantled, and reconfigured to be temporarily side to side wheels, and to allow some mobility.
Have a safe weekend
VP
-
Hi Everyone
Just an update, and some pics.
12/2 on his temporary trolley, and cylinder studs in place screwed by the method of 38AC good practices, with teflon in threads.
Have a nice and safe week
VP
-
Hi Everyone
Updating with some pics:
Tuning IP tappets and governor linkage.
Cam followers brackets and decompression levers ready to be snuggled.
And the socket saga continues, this time a M28 to replace a 1.1/8", needed for torqueing the head nuts.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
One more day to the 12/2 come up. Today arrived the chinese dial comparator (stand and tip extenders are on the way), and a offered (new) 200 Liter raw steel drum to make the cooling tank.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
While nothing else is done, the joints for the camshaft end cover are being cutted off, using 38AC method.
Have a sunny day.
VP
-
Hi Everyone
One more solution to save the non governor IP cam lobe taper pin.
After tapped a drop of loctite should be ok.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
Another step... tuning governor linkage. Somewhere (I don't remember now where) I'd seen this trick.
Here is the trick: Install InjPumps with no tappets, put both racks in full STOP position (Put some wire hanging the rack in full stop position, you may hook it to a cylinder stud).
(see now CS manual) put both bottom governor levers, Rt and Lt, in perpendicular position; put connect rod linking this levers, screwing rod fork and snuggling lock nut; don´t forget to put joint pins with small wire (see pic. It's just temporary, at the end I'll fit split pins).
Put both upper levers with Eye end, and put joint pins all over. Now put connecting rods from lower levers to upper levers and adjust both forks to connecting pin's hole, and put pins in.
Certify - with a calliper, or good eyeball - both racks move freely and with same opening measure.
«Off course when you fire the engine you will note if your measure are even. If not so, there will be 3 points to tune - just eliminate two of them to get things wright.»
Pay attention to worned joint pins. Reduce as much as possible clearances. In my case I've to make a few new ones.
Once again many thanks to Jim Perkins of the 3/16 rod. Save my day.
feel free to contribute.
Cheers
VP
-
Here is the 5th pic...
-
Hi Everyone
Sump/block came down to prepare to paint.
112kg of British cast iron! casted on 24JUL57.
Cheers
VP
That is one nice casting, I just looked at some other pictures and the flywheels and other parts are nicely casted as well. It’s going to be a very nice engine.
Henry
-
Hi Everyone
While 12/2 still in shop to fit new valves, I amused with small things.
Most of all giving a hand to my parents threshing corn of their small production (primitive white corn, to make white corn bread);
and... sniffing arround I found a small 2-stroke engine in my old man´s scrap drum that belonged to a sprayer knapsack.
After stripped all down, It's working very good, see here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mhexOk7vQW1AQpAYV5YpRUoPVmZ5lf2a/view?usp=sharing
Some pics to help those don't care about reading.
Have a nice time
VP
-
Hi Gentle
One saturday in the village, with a tour to the antiques show in the county town.
I was told that in the old mill - which in the past was water-powered - had an old stationary engine there, but it must have been badly damaged over time.
I took a look, and it in reality was stripped and stolen, it lefted only the block, with the flywheels, and the crankshaft already rusted. see the pictures. It is a 12/2 of 1957.
-
See also some pics of the show.
Cars...
-
A few tractors...
-
some motorcycle and scooters...
-
And there were 2 Listers, one 8/1 of 1961, and another 12/2 of 1953.
I felt embarrassed by the description on the board. take a look: the board states 1938, but the serial plate states 1953.
"Anyway, who doesn't know is like who doesn't see!"
Cheers
VP
-
And I'll bet it never came out of the factory with that air filter either.
-
Hi Everyone
Fall season are times to doing crops, and today was grapes crop, starking apples are also mature, and the olives are getting pretty.
Here are some pics of the crop, grape crusher, and one with our work horse a ISEKI 1910 of 1980 (in my hand since day 1).
....
-
And also some of the new bituminous carpet.
Stay safe.
VP
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@ Sirpedrosa;
Nice harvest! here it's also that time of year. potatoes, onions, garlic tomatoes, apples, pears, peaches, and even some grapes. An apparently smaller garden than yours, but it really keeps us busy. No tractor, just hand work.
A new driveway is awaiting......... A dumper brought yards of gravel two days ago. Now it needs to be spread......wheelbarrow, shovel and rake. Wish I did have a tractor, but.......
Cheers
Hugh
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Hi Hugh
That is in the village... because nearby my home in city (left bank of tagus) is also all by hand, but it's only to "exercise the laziness".
By the way please tell if you know where this company: http://catalog.daemar.com/item/dmr-trade-keystock/rectangular-keystock/0-313-563-12
If so, let me know.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Everyone
New valves seated, heads skimmed, measures taken and cylinders top sanded.
Next task: cutting joints to main bushes, and start putting parts in place.
Have a safe day.
VP
-
@ sirpedrosa
Daemar, the company you asked about has Canada locations in Toronto, Montreal, Edmonton, and Vancouver.
Vancouver is closest to me, but still a few hundred miles and 3 ferry rides from here. Also in USA
Looks like a good source of bushings, keystock, shims, etc.
Cheers
Hugh
-
Hi Everyone
Some more improvements today, cutting a bunch of joints to fit main bushes, fit felt washer, and tuning crank shaft end play.
Fitting idler gear - marked inside, as well as camshaft and crank pinion, so we can time it from inside.
Some pics, for the enthusiast.
Cheers
VP
-
And final product... for today
PS: By the way, shop charge me with 250€ for valve seats and head skiming.
-
Hi All
Nothing like a sweaty evening to tighten the central bearing of the shaft.
Some pics for enthusiasts.
Cheers.
VP
PS: remember wrench lever I made before?
-
Hi Gentle
Who can confirm to me the torque of the main bushing nuts.
I found this table: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/Articles/rrchapt8.htm
But I think the values are tabulated for R-grade, and the original studs should not be R-grade, because the torque wrench was already 60ftlbs, and I don't think they could handle 70ftlbs.
Well, the connecting rods are already in place too ...
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Gentle
Some more steps.
Con rods are in place and torqued.
Oil manifold too. Take a look at blind snuggle and tighten of oil delivery pipe! It's not easy with that french wrench!
Be happy
VP
-
Hi Gentles
the "greeny" is growing.
Straightened oil pipes (I mean more curved) and starting to set bump clearance.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi All
Some more twiking in the beast, fit cylinder joints to set height, tin to set bump clearance, ready to torque.
Loosening nuts and measuring clearance.
Now I got to do math.
Have a good weekend
VP
-
more 2 pics
-
Hi Gentles
Finally keystock arrived at final price of $55. Gold price... but its the only way!
Cheers
VP
-
Hi All
Making high tech tool to squeeze rings.
2nd coat of MBG on cylinders and heads.
Fitting cylinders down.
snuggling water manifold and intake manifold to get flange aligned (38AC good practice), to torque head down evenly.
I think it will be enough for today.
Nice weekend.
VP
-
a few more pics....
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Hi Gentles
Baskets are almost empty. Head and cylinders torqued - and final clearance rests in 1,3mm. Good figure, just a few thou above max advised.
It starts to look nice... rockers and push rods in place too.
VP
PS: final clearance taken thru injector hole.
-
Hi All
Making high tech tool to squeeze rings....
Ah, one of Vinnie the adjuster garrotes !!
-
Hi Folks
Small bits are rushing from the basket to the 12/2. Impressive is the minimum I can say.
This afternoon, after sealing governor housing, I saw injection pumps crying to take their place above governor housing - and there they are.
Now I'm expecting they give me a good tip in order to set the sharp timing spill, and get the beast alive.
2 pics for those like more image than rant.
Cheers
VP
Ps: remember that camshaft IP lobe threded? take look.
-
Hi Gentels
Now it's enlarging. what a beast! My goodness.
Cheers
VP
-
I do not comment a lot on your posts but I am always following. I still have one and a half of these to finish I am jealous of your progress. Looks fantastic can't wait for the video and soundtrack of the first start.
Regards Bernhard
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Hi All
All projects are idling (duty far from them), but not fully stopped.
Pig tail is in place. Small bits come slowly from basket, but they will get their place...
Cheers
VP
-
A few more bits in place.
Injection pipes getting straightened, and water manifolds in place to planning hosing.
Have a good week.
VP
-
What about this idea for cooling circuit?
It only needs the valve gate tap.
PS: I managed to get an old stock faucet to make drain tap.
-
Excellent thread ! I've just acquired a Lister CS 12-2 Generator set & am busy stripping down the engine at the moment.
So this thread is of great interest !
Cheers,
Jim
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Hi my friends
Today (after 400km) is time to give some TLC to the beast!
Timing injection pumps: pics by order...
1 - setting the probe to the comparator (nothing like a strip of duct tape). This probe - I think - NASA's will never get an ideia of it's origin - ok I disclose, it's a stell strip that holds the visel rubber of a wind shild wiper.
2 - setting the magnetic base of the comparator in place;
3 - setting the magnetic mark in filter to align with the fly rim;
4 - setting the TDC in the comparator;
-
5 - mark the TDC in the fly rim;
6 - manual spec by Peter Forbes (RIP)
7 - mark -4.25" = 20º BTDC in the fly rim;
8 - reading the comparator value in mm = 4.25" = 20ºBTDC = -5,25mm BTDC (stroke);
-
9 - start to unscrew the IP tappet bolt;
10 - align the line of the plunger with start injection line;
11 - detail of fine tunning;
12 - final course of the plunger (very important this clearence to not damage de IP);
-
13 - setting TDC, with 2 marks for centering comparator;
14 - setting mark in fly rim, and verifiing with comparator (pencil needing glasses to read scale);
15 - aling the line of the plunger with start injection line;
16 - detail of fine tunning;
-
Brass T came from lathe workshop.
-
Hi All
One more day harvesting olives...almost done for this year.
6 trees gave round 140kg.
4 pics fore those like this kind of amusement.
Cheers
VP
1 - Net to collect olives.
2 - tree already clipped.
3 - tree view... literally! (upon tree)
4 - productivity.
-
Hi Sp
Nice work, nice photo's.
What do you do with the olives?
Cheers
Stef
-
Hi Stef
Each 350 kg provides a complete olive paste press. I usually get 10% extra virgin olive oil. A few kgs are salted and preserved to serve as table "hors d'oeuvre".
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Gentles
The beast is dressed. Only need to be bleeded and oil pump primed.
2 pics to amuse...
Cheers
VP
1 - Hot water manifold detail.
2 - general view.
-
Hi Gentels
All baskets are empty, just left the old hose clamps.
It's ready to fire up...
Cheers
VP
pics:
1- basket;
2 - Do you remember my Braims oil can?
3 - And our friend syringe? Bleed is bleed, isn't it?
-
Hi my Friends
First of all I'd like to thanks to all of you, whom helped me to reach this mile stone.
THE LISTER IS ALIVE!
4 pics and the link to 2 vids starting cyl 1 and cyl 2.
Cylinder 1 starting: https://drive.google.com/file/d/19icG0EaDB67yH_wLljhglXsW1nyKESBo/view?usp=sharing
Cylinder 2 starting: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mk67GVyECd4eY0EDzCZ4OsBGyU82oe-W/view?usp=sharing
Couldn't start both cylinder at same time, because I realised it was to much kinetic energy to that casters in order to run steady.
Next step: making trolley and cooling tank.
Cheers
VP
-
Congratulations on getting her running. Good job.
-
Congratulations, I can not wait for a 10 minute youtube video.
good job !
Bernhard
-
Hi All
A new temperature gauge with 1/2 BSP sleeve for placing in the hot water manifold.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Gentles
The greeny is getting fancy. Look at his temperature gauge!
A new toy for my ISEKI, 2nd hand box but condition new - a bargain, trully!
And after almost one month of rain, tangerine tree is heavy loaded.
Have a nice weekend.
VP
-
Hi Gentles
Cooling system is getting shape.
Knife valve tap arrived... from UK.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Sirpedrosa,
In post #179 you had a couple of photos of the fretting damage caused by slightly loose flywheels, but there were no replies !
Were the sizes ok so that you could just refit the flywheels with a well tightened gib key ?
Or did you have the shafts built up & remachined ?
I've just removed one of my heavy SOM flywheels from my Lister 12-2 & have the same sort of damage.
Not measured actual sizes yet.
What do folk think about using Loctite to address this problem ?
I know that Listerdiesel used Loctite on one of the flywheels on his Ruston 1ZHR.
Cheers,
Jim
-
Hi Jim
It's not "slightly loose flywheels", but quoting Butch (aka 38AC) a Guru of stactionary engines, in reply #180 (https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8320.msg100707#msg100707), it says, and I agree, was only slight corrosion.
I think that a loose fly will unbalance the engine, in the way you will notice emediatly.
Sizes where ok and I refit flys perfectly.
Be carfull of "a well tightned gib key" because gib is made of very soft steel, in fact gib are a mechanical fuse in order to shear if something suddnely get stuck (normaly pulley), and must be tapped with the right force - about this issue read Peter Forbes (aka Listerdiesel in LEF): http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/Articles/rrchapt6.htm
A few days ago (befor finish the 12/2) I read (I think was Utterpower) about best way to fit flys, and I did like this:
1 - A good clean of shaft.
2 - put some baby powder (yes, baby powder) in the shaft and push flys along.
3 - I left 1/4" (in fact 5mm) as 38AC advized, between outside face of the bearing housing and face of fly (put a 5mm steel rod in gap).
4 - snug gib key, and after a good tap in a long rod of brass with a mallet, to not damage gib.
I think Listers don't need any stuff like loctite - Lister are pure mechanic.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Gentles
Today being a holy day (Feast of the Immaculate Conception), the village parish made the traditional Christmas lunch. "Mutton meat a la Bajouquense", a party day not to be missed.
Some photos for those who appreciate "these holy days" ...
Have a good week.
VP
-
A few more pics...
Pics by order:
1 - the room (400 seats);
2 - The Saint Aleixo wine (patron of the village);
3 - Mutton meat pan (one of);
4 - Chef Lino checking the potatoes;
5 - The almost crowded room;
6 - Served meat platter;
7 - Christmas baskets to raffle (6);
-
Hi Gentles
Just 2 pics to state the before and after...
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Gentles
Taking a break of Listers and duty, I had time to made a train trip up Douro river till last train stop, and return.
Please just enjoy pics:
1 - Start;
2 - Train on time;
3 - Going up stream;
4 - First stop (and later stop to lunch here: https://www.facebook.com/restaurante.calcacurta
-
more....
5 - vineyards in mountains;
6 - Last stop... just the right time to have a: Porto wine, Moscatel Favaios wine... or other thing you want;
7 - The old lady... forgotten;
8 - Time to go down...
-
more some...
9 - beautiful landscapes;
10 - speechless...
11 - river bend;
12 - River cruiser going down;
-
A few more..
13 - The lunch... "posta mirandesa";
14 - The dessert... words for what?
15 - Just the right time to lunch and go down again...
16 - The dinner? "rancho" of course! Expressly made for us at Tio Manel: (https://www.facebook.com/RestauranteTioManel/)
-
Hi Gentles
I managed to launch both cylinders, and I realised nº 2 is running cold, so I got to twik the IP rod in the linkage.
See here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1s-6O1MX5TDvZKIV8QO6mj2YvSNfWrKRg
A small vid. Don't mind the vernacular language. it's normal.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Gentles
After much argument with brand representative, today came the answer that the locknut has arrived, but also had the solution in sight...
Who doesn't has a dog, hunts with the cat ...
Merry Christmas everyone
VP
-
Sirpedrosa,
It seem that you are a very lucky man indeed! In more ways than one. A very Merry Christmas to you and your's and a Happy New Year.
Ron.
-
Hi Ron
I try to do my best, with the few means I have.
I wish the same to you and your home crew, and friends.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Gentles
Winter goes calm, the project of projects is finished (only the cooling tank and the proper kart are missing).
A few more occasional repairs: to another electric pump, give the old man's compressor a good overhaul, restore (if it can be) a dynastarter.
There is also a half-stopped project, let's see it gets somewhere, or just for scrap - for now it only spents my time, some oil retainers, a few ball bearings and special screws. At least I made a new tool for putting valve collets.
A few pics maybe give a better idea.
Cheers
VP
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a few more...
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Hi Gentles
Here is a 5 minutes run on youtube: https://youtu.be/lCRhRxQKBAw
Have a nive week.
VP
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Hi Gentles
Just passing by to show my hex bit socket set that lands in my shoe, to use in my late project.
Stay safe
VP
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Hi Gentles
Remember my torque wrenches? The big one has its new locknut, and the small was out of spec.
Both taken to the metrology Lab of ISQ (see: https://www.isq.pt/EN/services/metrology/) and certified (see seals).
This Lab is internationally renowned.
Be safe.
VP
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Hi Gentles
New project is going. Today making the camshaft extention to fit starting handle. Made also the dog and weld it to an adapted crank.
2 pic for the enthusiasts.
Cheers
VP
PS: now it only needs a steel spring pin.
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Hi Gentles
Today I was maintaining the Lister. I filled the cylinder jackets with water, and when it started to work he splashed some water through the hot water outlet manifold.
I suspect that one of the head gaskets must be leaking. A few more hours to take the heads apart.
Nothing that a Lister can't be worth.
Anyway, TLC.
Cheers
VP
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Hi Gentles
The two heads are out and cleaned. A eye ball magnifier shows cyl # 2 was leaking due to a low spot.
Do you remember I didn't skim the cylindres, because I don't want to loss original stamps in the cast iron.
I think that just a retorque of studs will do, but in this way I can get the global picture of the work done before.
Now will get copper gasket seal to fill that little spot, and torque nuts to proper spec.
Cheers
VP
Pics:
#1 refer to cylinder 1
#2 refer to cyl 2
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Now pics from cyl #2
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Hi Gentles
Copper gasket applied in both bottom face of gaskets, because the face of heads has been skimmed and so they are perfectly flat.
Heads already in place and torqued, and I forget to make a pic of the coated gaskets.
Next start up of it i´ll let it warm up a bit to retorque all nuts, while it stays warm after shutdown.
Cheers
VP
PS: 1 pic of the product.
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Hi Gentles
Engine log book for all rebuilded engines.
Cheers
VP
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Hi Gentles
Remember I said that the shack where the Lister was could not take another winter?
Storms Elsa and Fabian broke the roof of the shack.
2 pics from before and after.
Cheers
VP
PS: on the right below you can see the lister foundation.
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Where's the lister ?
-
Hi Mike
The Lister is in my home, with a nice paint job!
Cheers
VP
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Hi Gentles
Today the 12/2 had a good run, and the water in jackets reach 50ºC.
A pic and a video to the enthusiasts.
Good Weekend
VP
Vid: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iUbNOBQ-Sjq6P01sB1pcoOXg4MzIpyVZ
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Hi Gentles
25001 views. Just curiosity, or after all there is something more that can be learned?
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Gentles
Late project is also almost finished: Alternator is done, now is the starter motor.
Some pics for enthusiasts.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Gentles
Late project is also almost finished: Alternator is done, now is the starter motor.
Some pics for enthusiasts.
Cheers
VP
Did you rewind the field coils yourself.
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Hi Snow
No, just renewing the wrapping.
To do - if - new rewind I'll go to the specialized shop (see here): https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8333.msg102277#msg102277
It was where I got wrap materials.
Cheers
VP
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Just saw your video, makes you happy that sound. Well done.
-
Hi Gentles
Starter closed and running.
One pic before and after to enthusiasts.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Gentles
Times are tough. This COVID19 is shutting down everything, but we will stand!
Snooping around my thread - nothing to derust in shop (I call it office) - and reviewing some replies, lets pull the string to some of my good fellows!
1st and etc. - Some special thanks: To broncodriver99 and mikenash wom sent promptly 12/2 manual, To Butch (aka 38AC) for every encoraging word and knowlege; to Bob (aka Ajjafa1) undertanding the world is round, there is more land after south pole; to Hugh (aka Hugh Conway) almost in north pole gave me a hand to search parts that I needed;
2nd - To Dax21 (https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8320.msg97238#msg97238): said "i doubt that that cart would last 5 minutes with my Sr2 standing on it". the kart worked well to take the iron out of the shack, and after rufurbished and rotated to fit as is now. Dax, feel free to save planning of the kart, and put the SR2 on it!
3rd - To Johndoh (https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8320.msg97243#msg97243): said "I wouldn't like to be near the 12/2 when it starts balanced on that cart". Johndoh, see the vids and don't be affraid, but always prepare to run, we never know!
4th - To Bob (Ajjafa1) - hoping he gets his house quickly up - (https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8320.msg96978#msg96978) he said "I am a little concerned about your modification to the fuel filter, I`m not convinced the pressure holding the filter against the o`ring will be sufficient and could allow unfiltered diesel to bypass the filter". But he saw the final product and said "very nice work" (https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8320.msg97811#msg97811). Be safe Bob!
If I missed someone don't be sad. I'd like to highlight the best.
Cheers
VP
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2nd - To Dax21 (https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8320.msg97238#msg97238): said "i doubt that that cart would last 5 minutes with my Sr2 standing on it". the kart worked well to take the iron out of the shack, and after rufurbished and rotated to fit as is now. Dax, feel free to save planning of the kart, and put the SR2 on it!
Cheers
VP
Glad it worked for you. My SR2 is permanently mounted on a huge concrete block (1.6x0.5x0.5m). When and if I ever need to move it, it will be with a 3T chainblock onto the back of my pick-up
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Hi Dax
Nice to hear from you. Your SR2 is certainly attached to something.
For me this engines are just a challenge to put them alive (regardless some money thrown to south - rather for parts then for pharmacie), and they are not intended to be put on service. Just to get me busy and amused.
Cheers, and stay safe.
VP
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For me this engines are just a challenge to put them alive (regardless some money thrown to south - rather for parts then for pharmacie), and they are not intended to be put on service. Just to get me busy and amused.
Cheers, and stay safe.
VP
Mine works. I am offgrid, with a rather small system (3KVA), so when I need to weld or run any machinery, then I fire up the Lister. Probably doing an average of about 10hrs per month
Stay safe too. We are entering lockdown for the next 3 weeks, so have no choice.
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Hi Gentles
Stretching the Lister 12/2 connecting rods for a few minutes, so that the babbitt still soft...after giving a re-torque to head nuts.
With a FB vid: https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/2940382072695554/?t=1
Stay safe
VP
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Hi Gentles
Late project had an improvement - with an old brake disc, and a plate of steel.
3 pics for the enthusiasts.
Stay safe.
VP
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Hi Gentles
Another original Lister CS starting handle from ebay.
Some TLC and it will get gorgeous.
Some pics for enthusiasts.
Stay safe
VP
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Hi Gentles
Fancy starting handle is done!
Stay safe
VP
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Just discovered this thread, Good job and good info! I have a listeroid 12/2 that needs a tear down to clean out sand from the manufacturers casting process. Thanks for the motivation!
-
Hi TP
Dont forget to give a coat of epoxy primer inside crank case, clean fist with compressed air with acetone spray.
BR
VP
-
Hi Gentles
A few time ago I made a deal regarding a original Lister daily fuel tank, but it happens when I picked it up, the owner couldn't found tank cap. Deal remained but cut half price.
Since that I twisted my head about find a cap to the fuel tank. Yesterday I was in the dealer shop and a BP oil drum cap jumped to my eye, grabbing a tape measure to see if diameter was close enough, it came right with me.
After pulling off the foam seal, it fits like a glove on the fuel tank. Now we're getting somewhere.
Stay all safe.
VP
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A few days ago (befor finish the 12/2) I read (I think was Utterpower) about best way to fit flys, and I did like this:
1 - A good clean of shaft.
2 - put some baby powder (yes, baby powder) in the shaft and push flys along.
3 - I left 1/4" (in fact 5mm) as 38AC advized, between outside face of the bearing housing and face of fly (put a 5mm steel rod in gap).
4 - snug gib key, and after a good tap in a long rod of brass with a mallet, to not damage gib.
Gib key with powder in LEF, see here: https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=530.msg6407#msg6407
Just to link info.
VP
PS: Go here at Utterpower: https://www.utterpower.com/fitting-gib-keys/
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Hi Gentles
While a real size one doesn't get into my Christmas sock, I amuse with a model. C'est la vie!
Just a pic and link to FB: https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/pcb.3463399577024966/3194791720587920/?type=3&ifg=1&__tn__=HH-R&eid=ARDKOcuu74awyPS3UDLhMKqmR8q7bUx7Z6NceVsEjXONBn7VyL7-aBVgaIyHc2RJqpz4ORMSbYYQi2Fp
Stay safe
VP
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Just a pic and link to FB: https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/pcb.3463399577024966/3194791720587920/?type=3&ifg=1&__tn__=HH-R&eid=ARDKOcuu74awyPS3UDLhMKqmR8q7bUx7Z6NceVsEjXONBn7VyL7-aBVgaIyHc2RJqpz4ORMSbYYQi2Fp
Sorry, this content isn't available right now
The link you followed may have expired, or the page may only be visible to an audience you're not in.
Is that album shared PUBLIC ?
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Hi Mike
Its all ok, but here goes link only for video: https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/3194791720587920/?t=1
It is published in Stationary Engine Enthusiasts - a private group.
Stay safe
VP
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Hi Gentles
While surfing around internet, landed in a usefull site, that teaches basic and advance of mechanics and other info.
Take a look: http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/
Cheers
VP
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Hi Gentles
While the 12/2 does not have a proper cart, and his cooling tank, and the daily fuel tank in order, I am after a gem called Bamford SD4, take a look here: https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=9121.msg105551#msg105551
Lets see if this one get a mate by it!
Cheers
VP
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Hi Gentles
It has been a while this thread is idleing, and nothing like to post some news:
2 daily fuel tanks to get repaired.
A Lister DK (1950), that is advertised at 1000€ (thousand!), with some play in main bushing, to make it jump. (Was the first I saw here in running condition). Owner think it is made of solide gold!
And a surprise in my 12/2, with a loose gibkey in fly wheel.
Some pics to showoff.
Stay safe.
VP
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more pics...
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Hi Gentles
Things are going slowly... but they will go.
Fuel tanks (original from 12/2, and a spare one waiting for another project that appears in the meantime with a CS engine.
Please stay safe, and give your opinion (good or not, it doesnt matter). What really matters is being around here!
VP
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In case you weren't aware (you probably are?); the one on the right should have a chain going through that pulley to a float on the inside, and a bobweight on the outside. The higher up the side of the tank it goes, the less fuel you have...
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Hi AdeV
Yes, Im aware, and I got to make something alike. Chain and float were brass, so thief take it a long ago.
Cheers
VP
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Hi AdeV
Yes, Im aware, and I got to make something alike. Chain and float were brass, so thief take it a long ago.
I was fairly certain you'd know ;)
If you need pictures, both weight & float are present on my tank, so just let me know.
Cheers!
Ade.
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Hi Gentles
AdeV, please send pics, mesures and weight. And thanks in advance.
Fly is on place again. Gibkey (forgot to make initial pics) had 2 hight spots, and I gave it a slight file pass.
Crank against the wall, with MDF wood, to hold mallet tapping (to avoid damage in babbit).
Stay safe.
VP
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AdeV, please send pics, mesures and weight. And thanks in advance.
Will do - I'll try to get it done today or tomorrow, got to find it first!
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Hi Gentles
"New" Stand drill bought to my bench!
30 minuts after arriving it lays disassembled on floor in bits, to clean and see how much money to put more on it. (off course could get a brand new one, but have no funny tearing apart a brand new one!)
Summary: new belts, all bearings (once its all apart), new return coil, repair thread of spin arbor retainer. And already ordered key and keyless B16 chucks, coil.
Some parts already with one coat of ruststop.
Ill make a bench with threaded rods to itself. Some pics for those doesnt like to read!
Stay safe
VP
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Hi Gentles
New (expensive) set of bearings for drill;
AdeV,
Found suitable chain (square... guess from where?), and outside indicator for float (was a lever from an oil drum old tap) that will be turned to small dimensions.
A few pics to joy.
Cheers
VP
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Good man!
I did find my tank (eventually...), but it's still half full of diesel & I've not had chance to get it all out, apart & cleaned...
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AdeV
You didn't get the challenge, so here it goes: The chain I got it from bijou store, can you believe that?
If you dont have a dog... a cat will get it!
Stay safe.
VP
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AdeV
You didn't get the challenge, so here it goes: The chain I got it from bijou store, can you believe that?
If you dont have a dog... a cat will get it!
Haha - Nice bit of lateral thinking there... I think the original is brass (not sure), but I don't suppose it matters what it is, so long as it doesn't go rusty... more of a problem in our wonderful English climate than yours I suspect!
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Gentles, AdeV
Yes, chain, float and weight would be brass, but I couldnt found that type o chain with 4mm, only more and only chrome plated. This one fits like a glove, because links are square, and it has a great travel speed.
Meanwhile, bench drill machine is sorted, with a coat of paint. Unfortunately the bench I made with 12mm threaded rods swing more than I expected. I need to put it some cross bars to stabilize it.
Chucks are on way, says chineses.
Some pics for entusiastes.
Stay safe.
VP
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Gentles
Bench drill machine stand finish with plan B. 4 legs of 20mm rebar give it the stability required, with framework of 12mm rebar. Shelf for drill bits, and upper table for drill machine.
3 pics to amuse.
Stay safe.
VP
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Hi Gentles
First of all happy new year to everybody.
Drill stand is done, and drill on it.
Stay safe.
VP
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Hi Gentles
Found around net a couple of pics of Lister Junior product "marketing", that may cheer our members, within this difficult days.
Stay safe
VP
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Lister Jr pics - I can hear it ticking over. ( wait, that's my heart, never mind)
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Hi Gentles
Finally spring and chucks arrived, and drill is ready to roll.
Stay safe.
VP
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Hi Gentles
Maybe you already had being in this mile stone! Seen an add with a Lister CD, made contact with seller but didnt reserve it (sometimes sellers are twisted minds) near my village (30km far) and tell him id make a visit next weekend (mean last weekend).
Filled wallet with some bills, and got there. A phone call and he said engine where gonne day before. Damn!
Now the buyer gave it a jetwash and put it again on add, 3X price he paid. and doesnt know what engine is! Damn, Damn, Damn!!!
See pic of seller, and now pic of buyer.
Damn, it would be already disassembled down stair, and next week it will have MBG fresh paint. Damn, Double Damn......Damn.
Stay safe.
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Hi Gentles
A few time ago I was told a very rusty iron still seated on a field.
Today I made a divert of... 200km to see it.
I think it looks worse than it is... off course its seized! I was told its seated under weather since my spotter remembers!
Couldn't make any better pics, because there was a shepherd dog warning me that was its place.
Anyway, ill try to fetch it.
VP
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Hi Gentles
More pics about the 12/2R.
Some opinion asked!
Cheers
VP
PS: notice some frost repairs in both cyls!
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Hi Gentles
This afternoon take a few minutes to exercise my arm, and stretch the con rods to the 12/2.
a vid is at FB, here: https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/4126863360714080
Cheers
VP
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Hi Gentles
This afternoon take a few minutes to exercise my arm, and stretch the con rods to the 12/2.
a vid is at FB, here: https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/4126863360714080
Cheers
VP
Can't see it !
This Content Isn't Available Right Now
When this happens, it's usually because the owner only shared it with a small group of people, changed who can see it
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Hi Mike
Stationary Engine Enthusiast, is a closed group, you just need to ask to join!
You will like to follow it. Give a try!
Cheers
VP
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The link to the video - looks to be a facebook video, I don't see any resource pointing to "Stationary Engine Enthusiast"
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Hi Gentles
Remember I had a restoration aside Lister 12/2 - a Penta 6A, 1971? And the dynastarter was refurbished? (see here: https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8320.msg104124#msg104124)
After put it on the engine, all working good, dynastarter firing the engine nicely... after tuning idle rpm, and max rpm, it never started again with the dynastarter.
Tried another battery to see if the issue was from there.... and nothing. Thamn, maybe the dyna have some issue, I think.
All disassembled and... thamn, dynastarter is busted. Worst, rotor had windings destroid. Thamn!
Lesson learned: a few meters of nylon twine in the front copper coils had prevent the disaster. (Think was the full throttle that put centrifugal force in coils, and they just open to the side, and destroy all thing)
A few pics to show the disaster...
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And now I have to rebuild it all! All windings.
Take all coils from rotor, search for new ones (or someone who make them), counting turns, make a jig to wind new ones, etc, etc
Cheers
VP
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Hi Gentles
Looking around I find a shop that can make hairpin coils, but.... (allways a but) they dont have 3*1mm flat copper wire, they need at least one old hairpin sample (all busted now!) to make the jig... and if (onother thamn word) I find correct copper wire they will charge... 125€+vat for labour.
In other hand found this retailer in Germany (https://www.simon-auto-shop.de/epages/Simon-Auto-Anlasser-Lichtmaschinen.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Simon-Auto-Anlasser-Lichtmaschinen/Products/AN9098), with new armature, and costs 59,5€+P&P. So Im gone order a new one!
And found at same retailer voltage regulator (https://www.simon-auto-shop.de/epages/Simon-Auto-Anlasser-Lichtmaschinen.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Simon-Auto-Anlasser-Lichtmaschinen/Products/RE1065N).
Will see how to manage it.
Cheers
VP
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you might try romaine electric in seattle, the may have a rebuild armature
or at the very least they can have yours rewound, or even provide you with coils.
they are great folks to work with, and they seem to come up with a part for all sorts of stuff from all
over the world.
phone number 425-264-1700 and they are located in kent washington
i know they work with folks form all over the world, and are a pleasure to work with.
also fwiw, a few years back they bought out a rewind shop in southern california, and the women they have doing the rewinds/coils are excellent and the prices are very good.
if you have a serial number off the case, they can identify the unit and get you a price while you wait in 99% of cases.
did business with those folks for years, and i have never found another company to match their experience, service, or price.
fwiw
bob g
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Hi Bob
Thanks for your support, but...Im in the other side of Atlantic Ocean.
Customs here (and there too) has a tiny hole net to catch and tax from abroad stuff, and are 24/7 aiming to shot at anything that cross the ocean.
Take a look at the price my keystock arrived from USA (https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8320.msg102563#msg102563)
Postage is very expensive! labour is expensive.
Already ordered new rotor, and voltage regualtor.
Cheers
VP
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Hi Gentles
there's nothing wrong that can't get worse! (people sayings)
New armature arrived, and... Its only 60mm diameter (original 68mm), longer than original, and commutater thiner and less segments. THAMN!! (second disaster)
I think i'll have to send it to Pakistan to get fixed. (where craftmen, masters is the word, still exist)
DOUBLE DAMN!!
More money to south!
Cheers
VP
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Hi Gentles
New Dyna after all, from Germany. Already in place, and old one wainting for better opportunity to be rebuild.
A pic to enthusiasts.
Cheers
VP
PS: Bought also a Voltage regulator, so can get juice from alternator and Dyna.
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Hi Gentles
Im looking forward to be retired (just joking), but i'm expecting to have more time to dive deep in villages and found lost pearls like the one I found. Another 6/1 of olive oil plant.
The (ancient and wealthy years ago) state still has in front door a royal shield.
2 pics for enthusiasts.
Cheers,
VP
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Hi Gentles
Im looking forward to be retired (just joking), but i'm expecting to have more time to dive deep in villages and found lost pearls like the one I found. Another 6/1 of olive oil plant.
The (ancient and wealthy years ago) estate still has in front door a royal shield.
2 pics for enthusiasts.
Cheers,
VP
wrong key pressed...
-
Hi Gentles
Remember the Lister CD that I lost a year ago? see here: https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8320.msg106687#msg106687
It is coming back again to ads site, and the woner call it Lister SD... and he says its running 100%, and only had put it a new injector.... last but not least is asking...
1500€, yes 1500€
And I say, keep dream!
A few pics for you to joy.
Cheers
VP
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Hi Gentles
For us (I mean all members... ok, some enthusiasts too) have itches and scratches eveytime we see some old rust, scale rust, all sort of rust. You all know what I mean!
A few days ago a I was told we (dont ask, dont tell) have a warehouse in an old fortress, where had been there a power plant in the old times.
The stand of the engine (see pic) was something not strange to my eyes, but mesures are out of my knowlege range.
Take a close look to give a help, because plate states CS engine (10/2 or 12/2) but my tape say it doesnt match to CS 10/2 fixing centres (56cm*38cm).
Here are a few pics to joy (stand, daily fuel tank, rusty plate and door key to fortress ;D ;D ;D, and revealed plate) and give your thoughts. Please.
Is this a CS (10/2 ~ 12/2) 1951???
Stay safe.
Cheers
VP
Ps: I love that door key!!
-
Gentles
surfing around I found this!
same model daily tank in a JP2.... hum now we are getting somewhere.
And the mounting holes.... look like those in previous pics. Who knows!!!!!
PS: Damn, serial number dont match with CS...
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Gentles
My very deep apologies, because my wrong approuch to engine stand.
removing more rust scale, I could found fixing centres that can lead to other approach. So, previous centres I think they are for alternator, and now I found 60*30cm holes.
Anyone can say if this centres are from a CS (10/2 - 12/2) or JP engine?
2 pics for the rant.
cheers
VP
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Hi Gentles
If all has gone, at least the last link to history will be preserved.
And to do that a frame will do it nicely in my living room, or my office. Do you agree?
A pic to joy
Cheers
VP
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Hi Gentles
Please be free to give your opinion about the fuel tank in pic, after they get empty.
Cheers
VP
-
Hi Gentles
After quite a long time using the syringe as fuel tank, and figuring out the best fuel tank (just for fun) suitable for rally, here is the solution that came up.
Brackets are done (and painted now).
2 pics to enjoy.
Cheers
VP
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No man VP. That plastic tanks looks terrible, and definitely does not suit the period. Can you not find an old lawnmower or tractor tank made from metal, which would look a lot more "original"
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Gentles, Dax
I understand you perfactly! But (damn word) I got the original fuel tank. See here: https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8320.msg106249#msg106249
But (again?) I just want to show off my engine next mounth at my village in the anual cultural meeting. Caspici?
Off course a plastic fuel tank at a rally contest will be a minus score. But (once more, who cares) I got to make (not yet) a decent stand to put a drum cool tank, and a stand to original fuel tank.
By now it will must do the job!
Always considering.
VP
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Gentles
A few pics of the fuel tank. As I said it intends to be just for run to fun.
20 minutes run to see how things going.
You can see the vid here: https://www.facebook.com/100001713712882/videos/985427828832982
Cheers
VP
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Ok, I understand. You are forgiven
-
paint the plastic tank with a thick coat of lister green (and never let anyone see you take the top off)
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Mike, Gentles
Next week i'll order a spray cane of MBG, in order to make a decent job paint.
Cheers
VP
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Gentles
A few more tweaks to prepare for rally.
And a few pics to enjoy.
Cheers
VP
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As nice as ever, SP
Well done
Stef
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Stef, in special, Gentles
Nice to hear from you. Have you see that Z8 I spooted? (the Famel zundapp will have to waite). That journey to switzerland (my sister) and pass thru your place (and Lourdes, of course) it's not forgotten.
By now, Im enrolled to show off my Lister in the anual cultural meeting (see pic)
Already fit 2 new slabs at bottom of engine to make it more stable and presentable. (pic)
Lets see how its goes.
Cheers.
VP
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Gentles
Tomorrow will be the day. the 12/2 will be in exhibition till sunday.
Last preps are done: 4 sticks to pin the slabs to the ground to prevent engine to get away, and the stand to put the folder so people read and see how much work where done.
Fresh painted.
A few pics to joy.
Cheers
VP
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Hi VP, good luck at the show, I hope people appreciate all the hard work you put in. Have fun.
Bob
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Gentles, Bob
This weekend (including Friday) toke the Lister to showoff at FEIRIARTE (craft fair and economic activity) with several stands.
Some pics of the Lister to joy. Later I'll put link to other pics and vids the fair.
HERE IS THE VID OF THE LISTER: https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/773719947397458 (https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/773719947397458)
Cheers
VP
PS: As promised here are a few videos of the ethnography fair:
1 - work the clay, by Ceuzita (the girl) https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/586297879694851 (https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/586297879694851);
2 - work the clay, by Manuel, https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/7887660144607647 (https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/7887660144607647);
3 - the folk group, https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/1030052334375522 (https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/1030052334375522);
4 - water wheel powering the flour mill, https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/761025568543341 (https://www.facebook.com/valdemar.pedrosa/videos/761025568543341).
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More pics...
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more pics... at home finaly! As you can see the beast is seated again in the kart.
PS: just for lovers: In 3rd foto you can see the lub pipe to central main bushing, (and how nice lub piston 1 is, and the paper shim at cyl bottom) and the 4rd you can see the main pipe from lub pump, and also how 2nd piston as a good lub.
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Gentles
Could find some bits of a rusted beyond repairable fuel tank. Saved a lose strainer and clip, and the float with chain and balance.
Can sell the strainer and clip.
some pics...
Cheers.
VP
PS: Can you see the 10-7-77 ref at the balance? Its the spare part ref.